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Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
22/04/2009 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
40 year old Yuji Hirayama has amde the first ascent of The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan.
Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
22/04/2009 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama frees The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan
40 year old Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of The Fifth Element 9a at Chichibu, Japan.
The XVII Mezzalama stopped before the start, 17th edition postponed
The XVII Mezzalama stopped before the start, 17th edition postponed
The start of the Mezzalama Trophy scheduled for Sunday morning proved impossible due to deteriorating weather conditions which forced the organisers to postpone the start of more than 1000 athletes already at the start at Breuil - Cervinia. The classic ski mountaineering competition will probably be postponed a fortnight to...
La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
02/04/2009 - Climbing
La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
On 14/03/2009 Luca Zardini carried out the first ascent of "La linea dei Sogni" (8c+), the extension to the legendary "Sogni di Gloria" at Erto (Italy).
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
25/03/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
On 20 March 16 year old Adam Ondra made the first ascents of Riti Tribali 8c+ and Nonono 8c at Angelone, while on 21 March at Cornalba he repeated Les Sindacalistes 8c+ second go before onsighting Outsider (8a+). Adam Ondra's full report and thoughts about his Italian holiday.
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
18/03/2009 - Alpinism
Sottoguda ice climbing, Marmolada, Dolomites
A selection of icefalls at Sottoguda, one of the most important venues in NE Italy.
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
13/03/2009 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
Beat Kammerlander has made the first ascent of the trad route "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/8b+, E9-E10) at the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
23/02/2009 - Alpinism
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
16/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
On 25/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione and Massimo Coccalatto carried out the first ascent of Alta tensione (60m, II/5+) a new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo (Switzerland). On 01/02 Francesco Vaudo and Silvia Preti made the first ascent of nearby La stangata (60m, III/5+).
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.

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