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Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
Alex Puccio: pure bouldering power and passion
26/06/2019 - Interviews
Alex Puccio: pure bouldering power and passion
Interview with American climber Alex Puccio, one of the most accomplished female boulderers in the world.
Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade
26/06/2019 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade
Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated Sweet Neuf at Pierrot Beach in France, confirming the 9a+ grade suggested after the first ascent by Anak Verhoeven from Belgium.
Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
25/06/2019 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
In Valle Orco, Italy, Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of the sitdown start to I Coloniali, describing it as 'one of the best boulders I've ever climbed.'
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, film premieres and top speakers at the Alpine Village
25/06/2019 - Alpinism
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, film premieres and top speakers at the Alpine Village
Film premieres and top speakers feature highly in the Alpine Village program of the Arcteryx Alpine Academy 2019, the unique event from 4 - 7 July for climbers of all abilities wishing to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly at Chamonix Mont Blanc.
Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini add new climb to Mittlere Kasten in Austria
25/06/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini add new climb to Mittlere Kasten in Austria
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of Alles im Kasten, a five-pitch climb up Mittlere Kasten close to Klas in the Hoher Tauern massif in Austria.
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
Plane lands below summit of Mont Blanc
20/06/2019 - Alpinism
Plane lands below summit of Mont Blanc
On Tuesday morning a plane containing two Swissmen landed circa 400 meters below the summit of Mont Blanc, before being intercepted by police.
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
20/06/2019 - Alpinism
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod
19/06/2019 - Interviews
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod
Interview with Alex Chabod, vice president of the Gran Paradiso Mountain Guides, after the decision to recommend an ascent route and a different descent route on Gran Paradiso in order to avoid queues forming on the final meters to the summit.
Sébastien Bouin climbs Move, Adam Ondra's 9b/+ at Flatanger in Norway
18/06/2019 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin climbs Move, Adam Ondra's 9b/+ at Flatanger in Norway
Seb Bouin from France yesterday made the first repeat of Move at the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway, established in 2013 by Adam Ondra.
Dave MacLeod coasts along The Golden Road in Scotland
18/06/2019 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod coasts along The Golden Road in Scotland
Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of The Golden Road. Located at  Creag Mo on the Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, this trad climb checks in at E9.
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
17/06/2019 - Alpinism
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
James Webb climbs The Healing, one of his absolute best at Rocklands
15/06/2019 - Climbing
James Webb climbs The Healing, one of his absolute best at Rocklands
American climber Jimmy Webb has made the first ascent of The Healing at Rocklands, describing the 8B+ boulder problem as 'one of the absolute best lines I’ve ever touched.'
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.

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