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Lofoten climbing meeting by Norwegian Alpine Club
14/04/2009 - Alpinism
Lofoten climbing meeting by Norwegian Alpine Club
At the start of March the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub, NTK) hosted an international climbing meeting on the remote Lofoten islands. 40 climbers from 15 different nations attended the event designed to raise awareness of the climbing potential on the islands and to highlight the importance of Norway's immense...
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
28/03/2009 - Alpinism
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
On 21 March Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk carried out the first ascent of the ESE Face of Morteratsch (3751m) in the Bernina mountain range.
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
19/03/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
The sixth edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy). This annual international bouldering meeting attracts thousands of boulderers and climbers from all over the world.
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
13/03/2009 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
Beat Kammerlander has made the first ascent of the trad route "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/8b+, E9-E10) at the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria.
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
02/03/2009 - Climbing
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, France, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Antarctic, new routes for Huber, Siegrist and Richl
04/02/2009 - Alpinism
Antarctic, new routes for Huber, Siegrist and Richl
Interview with Alexander Huber who together with his brother Thomas, Stephan Siegrist and Max Riechl carried out three first ascents on Holtanna and Ulvetanna, two relatively unknown, remote and beautiful mountains in the Antarctic.
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
23/01/2009 - Interviews
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
Interview with Ueli Steck from Switzerland after his 13 January speed climb of the Matterhorn in a record 1 hour 56 minutes via the Schmidt route.
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
16/01/2009 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
Last weekend Gabriele Moroni visited the historic Lumignano Classica in N. Italy and returned home with a climbing sweep-stake: flash ascents of Boomerang 8a+ and Atomic Café 8a, and a fantastic 2nd go ascent of Mare Allucinante 8b+.
Bogdan Rokosz climbs testpiece in Mamutowa Cave, Poland
13/01/2009 - Climbing
Bogdan Rokosz climbs testpiece in Mamutowa Cave, Poland
Bogdan Rokosz establishes 'Sprawa Honoru' 9a at the Mamutowa Cave in Poland.
La sor blanche, new Dolomites mixed route by Riegler brothers
08/01/2009 - Alpinism
La sor blanche, new Dolomites mixed route by Riegler brothers
On 26 December 2008 the brothers Florian and Martin Riegler mande the first ascent of 'Sorella bianca“ (M9 WI6-), a new drytooling and mixed route in Val Lunga (Val Gardena, Dolomites, Italy).
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
07/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
On 28 December 2008 Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the classic Colton - Macintyre route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses in in a mere 2 hours and 21 minutes, setting a new record for the wall and climbing all three great North Faces of the Alps in...