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Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
At the crag Bilico (Primiero, Dolomites) Alessandro Zeni has made the first ascent of Energia Cosmica, Cosmic Energy, a sports climb the 27-year-old has now tentatively graded 9a+.
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team
07/10/2018 - Alpinism
Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team
Alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher from Austria have made a three-day alpine style ascent of a previously unclimbed 6050m peak in the Kinnaur district in the Indian Himalaya.
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
05/10/2018 - Interviews
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber 20 years after the first free ascent of Freerider, the famous big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Zabardast trailer: mountaineering and freeride in the heart of the Karakorum
Zabardast trailer: mountaineering and freeride in the heart of the Karakorum
The trailer of the film Zabardast, featuring Thomas Delfino, Yannick Graziani, Hélias Millerioux, Zak Mills, Léo Taillefer and Jérôme Tanon and their five week freeride skiing trip into the heart of the Karakorum in pakistan.
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
11/09/2018 - Alpinism
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse provides details about the climbing expedition to the little-known Thagas Valley, Karakorum, pakistan together with Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Two virgin 6000ers were climbed, while Maynadier was struck by rockfall and airlifted to safety.
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
06/09/2018 - Interviews
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen after the ascent, carried out with Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone, of Latok I via the north and south face. The three were only the second team to reach the summit of the 7,145m high mountain in pakistan’s Karakorum after the 1979 first ascent.
New climbs on two Karakorum 6000ers
20/08/2018 - Alpinism
New climbs on two Karakorum 6000ers
American alpinists Jess Roskelley and Kurt Ross and Belgium's Nelson Neirinck have made the first ascents of two previously unclimbed mountains in pakistan’s Karakorum massif: Chhota Bhai 6321 m and Changi Tower 2 6250 m above the Kondus valley.
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
14/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
Slovenians Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar and Briton Tom Livingstone have climbed Latok I (7145 m) in the Karakorum (pakistan), This is only the second ascent of the mountain, after the first ascent carried out by a Japanese expedition in 1979.
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
09/08/2018 - Alpinism
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
On 6 August 2018 French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier was hit by rockfall while on an climbing expedition in the Thagas Valley in pakistan’s Karakorum with Nicolas Favresse, Carlos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Maynadier was taken to Skardu military hospital by helicopter where his condition is far better than initially feared....
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
08/08/2018 - Interviews
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
Interview with Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer after his July 2018 solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West, a 7181 meter peak in the Karakorum, pakistan.
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
Three ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I climbed by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW climbed by Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux. Special mentions have been awarded for the ascent of Nilkanth by...
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
31/07/2018 - Alpinism
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped for over 6 days on Latok I, has been rescued by the Pakistani military helicopters.
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
29/07/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
Updates from pakistan concerning the attempt to rescue Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped at 6200m altitude on Latok I (7145 m) in Karakorum.
Latok I: Sergey Glazunov perishes, Alexander Gukov trapped at 6200 meters
26/07/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I: Sergey Glazunov perishes, Alexander Gukov trapped at 6200 meters
Dramatic hours on Latok 1 (7,145 m): Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov is currently trapped at 6200 meters after witnessing the death of his climbing partner Sergey Glazunov. A rescue operation is currently underway in a race against time.

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