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Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
03/07/2020 - Alpinism
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
Wafaa Amer, climbing and freedom
16/06/2020 - Climbing
Wafaa Amer, climbing and freedom
Climbing, at least the type we like, is all about climbing free. But there can be no doubt that we far prefer the freedom that climbing can offer, that transcends all judgements and prejudices. Precisely as indicated by Wafaa Amer.
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
21/05/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world.
Jakob Schubert, Jorg Verhoeven unleash their Zillertal creativity
19/05/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert, Jorg Verhoeven unleash their Zillertal creativity
Two difficult new sport climbs in the Zillertal, Austria: Walk the Line 9a freed by Jakob Schubert at Monkey Island and Der Weg zur Quelle 8c+ freed by Jorg Verhoeven at Schwarze Wand.
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
10/04/2020 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
After spending 33 days alone on the wall from 07/02 - 10/03/2020, Silvia Vidal completed a new big wall climb up the West Face of Cerro Chileno Grande in Patagonia, Chile. Sincronia Magica (A3+/6a+, 1200m circa) is the first route up the mountain’s west face.
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...
Of Rocks and Needles: Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, medical volunteers and climbers in Laos
04/04/2020 - Interviews
Of Rocks and Needles: Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, medical volunteers and climbers in Laos
The award-winning film Of Rocks and Needles directed by Kilian Reil documenting the voluntary medical work in Laos of German climber and doctor Volker Schöffl and his wife Isabelle.
Linea Continua, the film by Hervé and Marco Barmasse on YouTube
27/03/2020 - Alpinism
Linea Continua, the film by Hervé and Marco Barmasse on YouTube
Hervé Barmasse has published 'Linea Continua’ on YouTube, the film about the new route he established on the South Face of the Matterhorn with his father Marco. First ascended in 2010, it is still unrepeated.
Klaas Willems: Cystic Fibrosis, Coronavirus and why further apart is closer together
18/03/2020 - Climbing
Klaas Willems: Cystic Fibrosis, Coronavirus and why further apart is closer together
Extremely talented Belgian climber Klaas Willems, affected by Cystic Fibrosis, appeals to the climbing community to stay at home to decrease the spread of the Coronavirus.
Stefan Scarperi sends Bügeleisen sit 8C in Maltatal
09/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi sends Bügeleisen sit 8C in Maltatal
Stefan Scarperi from the South Tyrol, Italy, has repeated Bügeleisen sit, the 8C boulder problem in Maltatal, Austria, established in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a
29/01/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a
42-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of La Nave de los Locos on the island of Mallorca in Spain. With this ascent he celebrates 20 years of 9a climbing, after sending his first in 2000, action Directe freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
27/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Italian alpinist Matteo Della Bordella has repeated Itaca nel Sole on the Caporal in Valle Orco. Established in 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello, this multi-pitch route was freed in 2003 by Cristian Brenna.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger crevasse fall on Gasherbrum
20/01/2020 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger crevasse fall on Gasherbrum
After a terrifying fall into a crevasse, fortunately without serious consequences, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have ended their winter expedition to Gasherbrum I and II in Pakistan.
Gabriele Moroni climbing Demencia Senil, uncut video of Margalef redpoint
16/01/2020 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni climbing Demencia Senil, uncut video of Margalef redpoint
Uncut climbing video: Gabriele Moroni sending Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef in Spain.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...