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Schwarzer Engel, extreme new Maltatal icefall
03/01/2013 - Alpinism
Schwarzer Engel, extreme new Maltatal icefall
On 15/12/2012 Markus Pucher and Alois Krenn made the first ascent of the extremely difficult new icefall Schwarzer Engel (WI7+, M7, E6, 160m) in the Maltatal, Austria.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
New routes and climbing projects in Iran
28/12/2012 - Alpinism
New routes and climbing projects in Iran
The report by Luka Lindic of his latest climbing trip to Iran with Sam Beaugey , Manu Pellissier and Marko Prezelj during which they made the first ascent of Golden spatula (1000m, 6b) up Bisotoon.
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
27/12/2012 - Alpinism
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
Two new difficult icefalls in Austria's Gasteinertal established by Thomas Bubendorfer, Sepp Inhöger and Hans Zlöbl: Triple A and The usual suspects
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Everest and the Khumbu glacier... from the monitor
20/12/2012 - Alpinism
Everest and the Khumbu glacier... from the monitor
The interactive photo taken by David Breashears which explores Everest and the Khumbu glacier.
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
20/12/2012 - Interviews
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
Interview with New Zealand rock climber Mayan Smith-Gobat. Her ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, the Nose Speed and more...
Interview with Johanna Ernst
11/12/2012 - Interviews
Interview with Johanna Ernst
Interview with Austrian competition athlete Johanna Ernst, certainly one of the most talented sports climbers in the world.
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
07/12/2012 - Alpinism
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
03/12/2012 - Competitions
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
The Canadian climber Sean McColl crowned his best competition season yet by winning this unique challenge organised by La Sportiva, beating runner-up Dmitry Sharafutdinov by one attempt.
New gritstone climbs by Pete Whittaker and Jordan Buys
30/11/2012 - Climbing
New gritstone climbs by Pete Whittaker and Jordan Buys
Pete Whittaker and Jordan Buys have established some new gritstone rock climbs at Hall Moor Quarry and Baildon Bank, England.
The first snow in the Dolomites and the start of the winter season
The first snow in the Dolomites and the start of the winter season
Corvara-based Mountain Guide Francesco Tremolada has sent us this short update about the early start to off-piste skiing, freeride and ski mountaineering in the Dolomites.
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Voie Mallory: great Aiguille du Midi extreme skiing season start
Voie Mallory: great Aiguille du Midi extreme skiing season start
On 20/11/2012 Julien Herry, Francesco Civra Dano, Luca Rolli and Davide Capozzi skied and snowboarded down the famous Mallory Route on Aiguille du Midi in a 14-hour round-trip starting from Chamonix.

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