On 20/04/2011 Dani Arnold from Switzerland climbed the Heckmair route up the North Face of the EIger in 2 hours 28 minutes, setting a new speed record up this historic line.
Some details about Ueli Steck's recent speed ascent of Shisha Pangma.
On 17/04/2011 Swissman Ueli Steck ascended Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet in record time.
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck is back in the Himalaya, at present in Shisha Pangma base camp, ready for an attempt up the South Face together with Don Bowie
The program of the IXX Piolet d'Or which will be held in Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc) from 13 - 16 April 2011. All the awards, conferences, lectures and debates of one of the most important mountaineering events in the world.
Sean Leary and Dean Potter have set a new Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:36:45
Alex Honnold and Sean Leary have climbed three routes on El Capitan in Yosemite, The Nose, Salathé Wall and Lurking Fear in 24 hours.
In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
Nathalie Daoust wins the grand Prize of the 2009 Banff Mountain Photography Competition with her image entitled "Frozen in Time."
On 9 July Ueli Steck from Switzerland reached the main summit of Gasherbrum II (8035m) along the normal route.
Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka (India); Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten from Switzerland for their new route up Tengkampoche (Nepal). Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti received the first ever award in recognition of his remarkable achievements. It is worth pointing out that Kei Taniguchi is the first woman to receive a Piolet.
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon Rappaz (France) for their new route up the South Face of Nuptse (Nepal). These are in the running with three Japanese teams: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi for their first ascent up the SE Face of Kamet (India), Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano for their ascent up the North Face of Kalanka (India) and, last but not least, Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Katsutaka Yokoyama for the enchainment of two difficult routes on McKinley, Alaska.
Interview with Ueli Steck from Switzerland after his 13 January speed climb of the Matterhorn in a record 1 hour 56 minutes via the Schmidt route.
On 28 December 2008 Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the classic Colton - Macintyre route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses in in a mere 2 hours and 21 minutes, setting a new record for the wall and climbing all three great North Faces of the Alps in staggering times: Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses.
Inaki Ochoa de Olza died on the south Face of Annapurna this morning. Locked for four days at 7400m, the Spanish mountaineer died due to brain damage and pulmonary edema.
Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten have made the first ascent of the N Face of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) via their route Schachmatt (2000m, VI/85° ice, M7+/6 A0).