Climbing news, alpinism, mountaineering

16.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent

Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by Chhang Dawa Sherpa from K2 Base Camp. The climbers who summited are: Nirmal Purja, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Mingma G, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

15.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest

The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.  

14.01.2021 by Stefan Nestler in Alpinism

K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?

German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.

24.12.2020 by Vinicio Stefanello in Books-press

Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald

Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.

08.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list  of significant ascents

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22 September 2020.

02.08.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denis Urubko establishes new route solo on Gasherbrum II

Climbing alpine style, the 46-year-old Russian-Polish mountaineer Denis Urubko has forged a new route up Gasherbrum II (8032m) in Pakistan.

22.07.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Francesco Cassardo rescued on Gasherbrum VII

Dr. Francesco Cassardo, the Italian mountaineer injured last Saturday at over 6300 meters on Gasherbrum VII, has been airlifted to safety. The rescue efforts by Carlalberto Cala Cimenti, Denis Urubko, Don Bowie, Jaroslaw Zdanowich and Janusz Adamski and also Marco Confortola proved to be of fundamental importance.

15.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena

Mountaineers Cory Richards from the USA and Esteban ‘Topo’ Mena from Ecuador are currently trying to forge a new climb up the NE Face of Everest. Kami Rita Sherpa has just climbed the highest mountain in the world for a record-breaking 23rd time.

27.01.2019 by Claudio Migliorini in Alpinism

Spontaneity, altruism and drama in Patagonia

Tragedy in Patagonia: last week a Czech mountaineer died on Fitz Roy and two Brazilian mountaineers have gone missing. A 19-man rescue attempt was launched including Italian mountaineers Claudio Migliorini, Luca Schiera, Edoardo Albrighi, Jacopo Zezza, Giampaolo Calzà, Paolo Marazzi, Dimitri Anghileri, two Spanish climbers, two Argentinians and Denis Urubko. Migliorini reports about the rescue attempt the set off at 10pm on 21 January 2019 and was coordinated by Carolina Codò.

25.05.2018 by Planetmountain in Events

Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition

On July 14, 2018 Selva di Val Gardena will host the fifth edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award in memory of the South Tyrolean alpinist who died ten years ago on Nanga Parbat. The alpinists nominated for the 2018 award are Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon for the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, Ines Papert and Luka Lindič for their new route up Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan (China), and Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk for the new mixed climb up Pizzo Badile in Switzerland. Special guest: Kurt Diemberger

31.01.2018 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

The Nanga Parbat rescue

The rescue of Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat by Denis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala, and the greatness of all rescuers and those who do not hesitate to help those in need.

28.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!

Elisabeth Revol has been rescued off Nanga Parbat by Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala who climbed ceaselessly throughout the night. A helicopter transported the Frenchwoman to Islamabad and she will now return to France for medical treatment, while the four mountaineers will return to their attempt at climbing K2 in winter.

27.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat, Elisabeth Revol reached by Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko

UPDATE at 22:28: Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko reach Elisabeth Revol! This morning the rescue operation began to try and save Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. Two helicopters transported Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala from K2 to Nanga Parbat, dropping them off at circa 4900 meters; the rescuers are currently climbing up towards the Frenchwoman and Pole.

26.01.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Drama on Nanga Parbat, fears for Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol

High up on Nanga Parbat the Polish mountaineer Tomek Mackiewicz and France’s Elisabeth Revol have reportedly run into difficulty during their attempt to climb the mountain in winter. A rescue operation has been organised from K2.

01.05.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Ueli Steck, the man and mountaineer

In memory of Ueli Steck, the great Swiss mountaineer who died yesterday on Nuptse close to Everest.

30.04.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Ueli Steck dies in Everest accident

Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck has died near Mount Everest. The body of the 40-year-old ace mountaineer was found close to Camp 1 on the nearby Nuptse Face, where he was acclimatising for one of the most incredible mountaineering projects in the Himalaya: the Everest - Lhotse traverse.

08.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denis Urubko - my alpinism #2

The second video portrait of Denis Urubko, one of the strongest Himalayan mountaineers of the new millennium.

28.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denis Urubko - my alpinism

The video portrait of Denis Urubko, one of the strongest Himalayan mountaineers of all times.

17.08.2016 by Vinicio Stefanello in Events

Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016

On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by Vinicio Stefanello of planetmountain.com.

24.03.2016 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: how the climbing partnership was formed that, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, paved the way to the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan).