Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).
Interview with Anne Gilbert Chase after the ninth ascent and first female ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali, climbed from 2 - 5 June 2018 with Chantel Astorga.
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley after his record-breaking ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska in 8 hours 7 minutes on 5 June 2018
The two highly talented alpinists Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson are officially missing and presumed deceased in Alaska. They have not been heard from since their 5 March ascent of the Mendenhall Towers.
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.
Interview with Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher after his solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia.
In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
American alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. While the ascent required just 12 hours 29 minutes from the Bergschrund to the summit, the descent proved a harrowing ordeal that turned out to be one of the most intense experiences in his life.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award.
Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free ascent was carried out in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner.
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit of Cerro Torre, and 32 hours in total to return to their starting point. The first Torre Traverse was carried out over 4 days in 2008 by Haley together with Rolando Garibotti.
On 19 January 2016 the Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci made the first repeat of Via dei Ragni up the East Pillar of Fitz Roy, established in 1976 by Casimiro Ferrari and Vittorio Meles.
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and return to the starting point.
The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San Lorenzo.
Dani Ascaso, Lise Billon, Santiago Padros and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of Balas y Chocolate (900m, ED+), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Cerro Adela Norte in Patagonia.
Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has carried out a fast solo ascent of the routes Tomahawk and Excocet on Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia.