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Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
Silvio Reffo claims first free ascent of Horror Vacui on Monte Cimo
17/10/2016 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo claims first free ascent of Horror Vacui on Monte Cimo
Italian climber Silvio Reffo reports about the first one day free ascent, carried out on 16/10/2016, of Horror Vacui (8b+, 180m), the multi-pitch sports climb established by Rolando Larcher in spring 2015 at the Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Monte Cimo (Val d’Adige).
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
Adam Ondra (Cze) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) win the 30th Rock Master Trophy at Arco via the Duel competition formula. Austria's Jakob Schubert and Max Rudigier place second and third respectively, while in the women's event Katharina Posch (Aut) placed second, ahead of Anak Verhoeven (Bel), third.
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
On Sunday 28 August 2016 Adam Ondra won the KO Boulder Contest of the 30th Rock Master, beating in a thrilling final Germany's Jan Hojer and France's Jeremy Bonder, joint second. Victory in the women's event went to Katharina Saurwein from Austria who beat Italy's Giorgia Tesio and Serbia's Stasa...
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third. Francesco Vettorata, the only Italian in the Final, finishes seventh.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Sport climbing: tie a knot in the end of the rope!
31/05/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing: tie a knot in the end of the rope!
We have received the following appeal by the French Alpine Club section Causses et Cévennes that manages the Gorges du Tarn cliff reminding all climbers to tie a knot in the end of the tope before starting climbing a sport route.
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
24/03/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: how the climbing partnership was formed that, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, paved the way to the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan).
Stefano Carnati climbs Cornalba's Goldrake 9a+
21/03/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs Cornalba's Goldrake 9a+
On Sunday 20 March 2016 at Cornalba, Italy, Stefano Carnati made the third ascent of Goldrake, the 9a+ sports climb freed by Adam Ondra and repeated so far only by Gabriele Moroni.
Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio, Gabriele Moroni, James Webb, Daniel Jung, Jakob Schubert... climbing above and beyond the limits
23/02/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio, Gabriele Moroni, James Webb, Daniel Jung, Jakob Schubert... climbing above and beyond the limits
A quick overview of some of the most important climbs carried out recently by the likes of Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio, Gabriele Moroni, James Webb, Daniel Jung and Jakob Schubert
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
In remembering Henry Worsley, the British explorer who lost his life during his attempt to cross the Antarctic continent, from one coast to the other, solo, unsupported and unassisted, Marcello Rossi discusses the value and importance of exploration by placing it in the current historical and social context.
Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
28/01/2016 - Alpinism
Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
On 26 January 2016 at Bus del Quai di Iseo (Italy) Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a drytooling climb graded D13+.