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Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island, Canada.
Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana
28/04/2016 - Climbing
Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana
Interview with 19-year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosén who, with T-1 Full equipe at Oliana in Spain at the end of March, carried out one of the most difficult female onsights of all times.
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
24/04/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
British climber Shauna Coxsey and Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov have won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016, held yesterday and today at Kazo in Japan. Italy’s Michael Piccolruaz places a sensational second.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
Federica Mingolla reports of her 20/03/2016 ascent, together with Andrea Gaddi and Luca Schiera, of the classic multi-pitch rock climb Delta Minox up Pilastro del Scingino, Cavalcorto, Val Masino, Italy, established on 4 September 1988 by Tarcisio Fazzini, Livio Gianola, Sabina Gianola and Norberto Riva.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over 1300 climbers are set to take part in the 13th...
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young sport.
Kalymnos sports climbing rebolting project completed in Greece
12/04/2016 - Climbing
Kalymnos sports climbing rebolting project completed in Greece
The rebolting project of a massive number of sport climbs on the Greek islands of Kalymnos and Telendos has been completed.
Monte Rosa Ski Raid: Lenzi & Eydallin and Besseghini & Nicolini win first edition
11/04/2016 - Competitions
Monte Rosa Ski Raid: Lenzi & Eydallin and Besseghini & Nicolini win first edition
On Sunday, April 10, 2016 the first edition of the Monterosa Ski Raid was won by Damiano Lenzi & Matteo Eydallin and by Laura Besseghini & Elena Nicolini. The winners of this grueling ski mountaineering competition below the huge East face of Monte Rosa were also crowned Italian Champions.
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
08/04/2016 - Climbing
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
On April 4, 2016 British climber Paul Pritchard summited the Totem Pole, the amazing obelisk in Tasmania where he suffered a nigh fatal fall in 1998. As a result of that incident Pritchard was left partially paralysed and now, 18 years later, his ascent celebrates a conquest and circle that...
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
08/04/2016 - Alpinism
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
On 16/02/2016 Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Freit dl mond (120m, M7, VI+), a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
06/04/2016 - Alpinism
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
On 17 March 2016 the alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have made the first ascent of Aller Simple pour Mars, a difficult new mixed climb up the Pic de l’Aurore face at Percé, Canada graded M7+ WI7- 190m.
James Pearson - Le Bronx
05/04/2016 - Climbing
James Pearson - Le Bronx
A climbing movie by James Pearson, featuring the British climber’s efforts to repeat the historic 8c+ sports climb Bronx at Orgon, freed by François Petit in 1994.
Tour du Rutor 2016: Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret win 18th edition
Tour du Rutor 2016: Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret win 18th edition
After three difficult stages, on Sunday 3 April 2016 the 18th Tour du Rutor was won by the Italians Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and by the Frenchwomen Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret.