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British trad extremes
18/01/2007 - Climbing
British trad extremes
James Pearson makes the first ascent of "The Promise" E10 7a, at Burbage North, Dave McLeod repeats "Blind Vision" at Froggat and Ben Cossey from Australia makes an audacious headtorch repeat of John Dunne's famous The Parthion Shot E9 6c.
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
28/12/2006 - Alpinism
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
Polar bears, icebergs, a sailing boat, whales and a plethora of unclimbed rock and thousands of new routes to be climbed...In mid August 2006 the Italian Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Marco Zaninetti set off with Cristina, Giovanni and the Arctic Guide Kim to the remote Baffin Island in search...
Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
13/12/2006 - Alpinism
Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
Andrej Magajne from Slovenia reports of his August 2006 and 2005 expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, which resulted in four new routes in the Karakol valley in the Terskey Ala Too range.
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face of the Triangolo nero on Monte Emilius, the prime mountain...
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
22/11/2006 - Climbing
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
At the end of September Florian Scheimpflug, Tomáš Sobotka, Ondra Benés and Harald Berger travelled to the Andringitra National Park in Madagascar where they made the first ascent of 'Short Cut' 7c+ 750m and a repeat of 'Bravo les Filles' 8b on the immense Tsaranoro wall.
Asia Piolet d'or awarded to Urubko and Samilov for new route on Manaslu
13/11/2006 - Alpinism
Asia Piolet d'or awarded to Urubko and Samilov for new route on Manaslu
On 10/11/2006 the Kazak mountaineers Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov won the first edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, the award created by Men and Mountain, Montagnes Magazine and Grivel for the best mountaineering achievement carried out by Asian mountaineers.
Austrian Shipton Expedition: new routes and repeat of Women and Chalk
10/11/2006 - Alpinism
Austrian Shipton Expedition: new routes and repeat of Women and Chalk
In mid-July a five-man Austrian expedition comprised of Thomas Scheiber, Hansjörg Auer, Matthias Auer, Karl Dung and Ambros Sailer established two new routes in the Trango Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan, and repeated Woman and Chalk, first ascended in 2001 by Bubu Bole, Mario Cortese and Fabio Dandri.
Todd Skinner, one of America's pionering free climbers, killed in Yosemite
31/10/2006 - Climbing
Todd Skinner, one of America's pionering free climbers, killed in Yosemite
Todd Skinner, one of America's pioneering free climbers, died on October 23 when abseiling from the Leaning Tower in Yosemite.
Markus Bock ascends Frankenjura's hardest
26/10/2006 - Climbing
Markus Bock ascends Frankenjura's hardest
At the start of October Markus Bock made the first ascent of what he believes to be the hardest route in Germany's Frankenjura, "Corona" 11+ (French 9a+).
Kedar Dome ascent for Parnell and Emmett
20/10/2006 - Alpinism
Kedar Dome ascent for Parnell and Emmett
British duo Tim Emmett and Ian Parnell climb new route on the SE Pillar of Kedar Dome (6830m) in the Gangtori region of the Indian Garwhal.
Cho Oyu: Pavle Kozjek solo's new route up SE Face
20/10/2006 - Alpinism
Cho Oyu: Pavle Kozjek solo's new route up SE Face
On 02/10/2006 Pavle Kozjek from Slovenia climbed a new route solo up the South East Face of Cho Oyu (8201m).
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
05/10/2006 - Climbing
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
In August the Italians Marco Vago and Simone Pedeferri completed their new route up M.te Donneittu (Codula de Luna, Sardinia) called Amico Fragile and graded 7c+/8a .
Luca Maspes & Co summer 2006 climbing exploration
04/10/2006 - Alpinism
Luca Maspes & Co summer 2006 climbing exploration
Luca Maspes & Co climb 11 new routes in Valtellina during summer 2006.
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
19/09/2006 - Climbing
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
On 30 August Nicolas Favresse made the first ascent of "Lost in translation" a 400m, 10-pitch free climb (5.12b/c) on the East Face of El Capitan together with 30-year-old Ivo Ninov from Bulgaria.
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
14/09/2006 - Climbing
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.
Colpo di coda new Marmolada outing by Giordani e Faletti
13/09/2006 - Climbing
Colpo di coda new Marmolada outing by Giordani e Faletti
Maurizio Giordani and Massimo Faletti have made the first ascent of the 28-pitch "Colpo di Coda" 6c+/A2 up the south face of the Marmolada.