Home page Planetmountain.com
Divina Comedia 7c, Ordesa, Spain, freed in 2006
Photo by Bereziartu collection
El Ojo Critico, Pilar de Cotatuero, Ordesa, Spain.
Photo by Bereziartu collection
INFO / links & info:

Pilar de Cotatuero, Ordesa: Bereziartu and Oteguia add 'El Ojo Critico' 8a


On 6/07/07 Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui made the first ascent of "El Ojo Critico", 400m trad 8a on the Pilar de Cotatuero, Ordesa National Park, Spain.

Josune Bereziartu and her husband Rikar Otegui have tapped into their sports climbing strength to make the first ascent of "El Ojo Critico", a 400m high trad 8a on the Pilar de Cotatuero in the Spanish Ordesa Valley.

The "Critical eye" takes the first two pitches of the classic Rabada-Navarro, then forges upwards directly through the Cotatuero prow. The two Basque climbers made the bolt-free ascent over a three day period from the ground up, taking alternate leads except for the crux pitch, which both led. Describing the line as "espectacular", Josune sent the following report:

"Last week we made the first ascent (for this reason I’m very proud) of a new route in Ordesa Valley. It's 400 meters high and has one 8a pitch. We only used a few pitons in the entire route and many cams, micros and stoppers...No bolts anymore!!!

We called it "El Ojo Critico". We climbed it in three single days going strictly from the ground. The line takes the center of the most important pillar in Ordesa, the Pilar de Cotatuero. The route climbs the first two pitches of the ultra-classic Rabada-Navarro, then goes straight to the top itself, independently without touching any other route. The line is spectacular.

The climbing style in Ordesa is mostly, as the French would say, "Terrain De Aventure". You can place trad gear quite easily, so we only placed a few pitons. The rock is not the best; it is sandstone and at times a kind of bad mixed limestone. So the route is very fragile in parts, meaning that you need to climb very quickly, and in those places it's not easy to place gear. The style is very athletic, many overhangs, lots and lots of dihedrals, roofs... at times very good quality vertical faces. But overall the rock is not very solid.

Some belays need be protected with gear, others are protected with pitons.
We didn’t bring any bolts with us, we decided to try without. Some of the pitches were pretty scary, but we wanted to maintain a "purer", more authentic spirit."

El Ojo Critico
Pilar de Cotatuero
Ordesa Valley, Spain
f.a. Josune Bereziartu & Rikar Otegui 06/07/2007
Grade: 8a
Pitches: first two pitches of Rabada-Navarro (grade V), then P1: 6b+, P2: 8a, P3: 7a/+, P4: 6c, P5: 6c, P7: 6c,P8: 6c+, P9: 7b, P10: 6b+ and then easy to the top
Gear: two sets of cams, two micro sets and nuts. Twelve quickdraws, slings.
Notes: first ascended from the ground up, no bolts. At times chossy rock





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra