1962 News found

Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.

Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.

Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger have failed 200m shy of the summit in an attempt to establish a new line up Mount Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan.

Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.

On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the West Face of the Sass dla Crusc (Fanis, Dolomites, Italy).

Stevie Haston, alpinist, ice climber and snowboarder, tells about his experience of the first ever Tor de Geants, the incredible mountain marathon which covers 330km and 24,000 vertical meters, starting and finishing at Courmayeur and completing a circle around the Valle d'Aosta, via the Gran Paradiso, Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn...

Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and making the first free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m).

Hopes are high that two crags at Gaeta (Italy) will be reopened after July local town council decision to forbid access.

The sport climbing European Championships were held in Austria's Imst-Innsbruck last weekend. Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Angela Eiter won the Lead competition, Cedric Lachat and Anna Stöhr the Bouldering event, while Sergey Abdrakhmanov and Edyta Ropek won Speed.

Christian Stangl, the Austrian alpinist who had claimed the only K2 ascent in this pre-monsoon season, admitted yesterday to not having reached the summit, as had been contested by a part of the mountaineering community.

A commission called upon by the Korean Alpine Federation has declared Miss Oh Eun-Sun's Kangchenjunga ascent as improbable, thus raising doubts as to whether the Korean was the first woman to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks.

On Saturday 21/08/2010 Chloé Graftiaux, the Belgian sport climbing champion and one of the strongest athletes in the world ranking, died after falling from the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mont Blanc).

From 12 to 22 July Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto of the Greenland 2010 expedition established The Devil’s Brew (850m) on Seagull wall, Greenland.

On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia

Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...

On Saturday 18/07/2010 the V Arco Rock Legends was celebrated in the Arco Climbing Stadium. Adam Ondra received the Salewa Rock Award while Akiyo Noguchi won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Maurizio Manolo Zanolla received the Sector Climbing Award, a new prize created by the Rock Master association.