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Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
02/03/2009 - Climbing
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, france, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from france has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
16/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
On 25/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione and Massimo Coccalatto carried out the first ascent of Alta tensione (60m, II/5+) a new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo (Switzerland). On 01/02 Francesco Vaudo and Silvia Preti made the first ascent of nearby La stangata (60m, III/5+).
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
09/02/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
Last weekend Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia won the third and final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2009 Lead and in doing so they also won the overall Trophy 2009. Maria Tolokonina won the Speed event, together with teammate Pavel Gulyaev.
Ice World Cup 2009: Markus Bendler and Angelika Rainer win in Saas Fee
26/01/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009: Markus Bendler and Angelika Rainer win in Saas Fee
Markus Bendler from Austria and Angelika Rainer from Italy won the Ice Climbng World Championship and the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup, held in Switzerland's Saas Fee last weekend. Russian athletes Maria Tolokonina and Pavel Gulyaev doubled their Daone success and won the Speed event.
Gondo Gully, new gully in Switzerland's Gondoschlucht
22/01/2009 - Alpinism
Gondo Gully, new gully in Switzerland's Gondoschlucht
On 18/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Andrea Gamberini and Elio Bonfanti made the first ascent of Gondo Gully (300m, II-M4-4), a gully on the Parete nascosta in the Gondoschlucht (Simplon Pass, Ossola, Switzerland).
Mont Blanc: 4 mountaineers die on Aiguille du Midi
20/01/2009 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc: 4 mountaineers die on Aiguille du Midi
Between Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 January four Italian mountaineers from Turin lost their lives while attempting to climb on the NW Face of Aiguille du Midi.
Albosaggia - 24ª Valtellina Orobie
20/01/2009 - Competitions
Albosaggia - 24ª Valtellina Orobie
The 24th edition of Valtellina Orobie, valid as the second stage of the ski mountaineering World Cup, took place on 18/01/2009 in took place at Albosaggia and was won by Laetitia Roux from france and Florent Troillet from Switzerland.
Ice World Cup 2009: Bendler and Tolokonina win the Ice Master in Daone
19/01/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009: Bendler and Tolokonina win the Ice Master in Daone
On 18/01/09 Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia won the 8th Ice Master in Valle di Daone, valid as the first stage of the Difficulty Ice Climbing World Cup 2009. Maria Tolokonina also won the Speed event together with teammate Pavel Gulyaev.
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
12/01/2009 - Climbing
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
Ryan Pasquill has made the first ascent of the impressive gritstone line to the left of The New Statesman at Ilkley, England. The route has been called Gerty Berwick.
Bullock and Brodie establish new route at Mont Saxonnex, France.
01/01/2009 - Alpinism
Bullock and Brodie establish new route at Mont Saxonnex, france.
In mid December the British climbers Nick Bullock and Neil Brodie established 'Who needs sex, we get hotaches' WI6 100m at Mont Saxonnex, france.
Andreas Bindhammer, Big Hammer and PunktX
26/11/2008 - Climbing
Andreas Bindhammer, Big Hammer and PunktX
Andreas Bindhammer from Germany has carried out the first repeats of Big Hammer 9a at the Pinswang in Austria and PunktX 9a/9a+ at the Gorges du Loup, france.
Lead World Cup 2008 to Johanna Ernst and Jorg Verhoeven
18/11/2008 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2008 to Johanna Ernst and Jorg Verhoeven
The sixth and final stage of the Lead World Cup 2008 took place in Slovenia's Kranj last weekend and was won by Johanna Ernst from Austria, ahead of Maja Vidmar and Akiyo Noguchi. Klemen Becan from Slovenia won the men's event, ahead of Jorg Verhoeven and Patxi Usobiaga. Ernst and...