1680 News found

Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.

On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.

British climbers Mike 'Twid' Turner, Stuart McAleese and Mark Thomas have established their new route Arctic Monkeys (VI A4 V+ 1400m) on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island. Interview with Mike Turner about the ascent.

Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...

Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.

On 23 May Silvio Mondinelli, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Abele Blanc, Michele Enzio and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Everest from Tibet. On 22 May Simone Moro reached the summit, once again with the use of supplementary oxygen.

At the end of April Riccardo Scarian freed two new routes in Val Noana (Dolomites), Shantaram 8c and Hatù per tu 8b+.

On 17 April Edurne Pasaban from Spain's Basque country reached the summit of Annapurna, her 13th 8000m peak, while Joao Garcia from Portugal completed the collection of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Asier Izaguirre, Alex Chicón, Nacho Orviz and the Sherpa Mingma, Pasang and Gempu from the Pasaban...

On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.

American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.

On 13/03/2010 Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic repeated Golpe de estado 9b at Siurana, his hardest climb to date.

Tony Lourens, the editor of SA Mountain Sport Magazine, shares the delights of rock climbing around Cape Town at the tip of Africa.

Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Takargo (6771 meters) via its East Face in Nepal.

Ice climbing to ice climbing around the Lyngen Fjord in Norway by Albert Leichtfreid from Austria.

On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was won by the Weger and Gross. The extenuating and freezing...

On 13/02/2010 Nikita Uboldi, Ean Barelli and Andrea Cairoli carried out the first ascent of La Piovra (4. WI6- M7R A1), in the Prosito mountain range in Canton Ticino, Switzerland