154 News found

On 2 August Roger Schäli and Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the Piola - Ghilini Direttissima (1400m, 7c) on the north face of the Eiger.

Patrick Gabarrou was born in 1951 close to Paris in France and the routes first climbed by this alpinist, philosopher and mountain guide are integral parts of the history of Mont Blanc. The following interview was carried out by don Daniele D'Elia and Ronald Gumiel during the recent series of...

Ivo Ferrari and the route Gianni Ribaldone, established on Spiz di Mezzo in the Zoldo Dolomites by H. Steinkötter and A. Mazzenga.

From 12 - 15 May Stefano Angelini, Alessandro Beber and Fabrizio Dellai established Argento vivo, a new ice and mixed route up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites. Alessandro Beber provides the details.

Interview with Alessandro Bau about the massive new route first ascended and then freed up Punta tissi (NW face of Civetta, Dolomites) together with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini.

On 15 May Russian alpinist Alexey Bolotov died above the Khumbu Icefall on the South Face of Everest.

From 12 to 14 April 2013 the alpinists Dani Arnold and David Lama made the first ascent of Bird of Prey (1500m, 6a, M7+, 90°, A2) up the unclimbed headwall of Moose's Tooth in Alaska.

They come from France, Britain, Russia, the United States and Japan and all made beautiful and difficult climb up highest mountains in the world: the candidates for the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious international mountaineering award which will take place from 3 to 6 April 2013...

Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...

Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.

Paris is hosting the World Climbing Championships 2012 from 12 - 16 September.

On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.

On 17 and 18 July Italian alpinist and mountain guide Rossano Libera made the first solo ascent and second repeat of the Direttissima Memento Mori route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. A route and ascent which many define as the "most hair-raising" on the entire face.

On 16/03/2012 Daniele Natali and Tito Arosio made the first winter ascent of Via Paco (7b (6c+ obligatory), 400m), while a day later Maurizio Panseri and Fulvio Zanetti made the first winter ascent of Via Bosio (7a+ (6°+ obligatory) 430m) up the North Face of Presolana, Italy.

On 2-3 March 2012 Maurizio Panseri, Daniele Natali and Alessandro Ceribelli carried out the first winter ascent of via Direttissima up the North Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Maurizio Panseri.

With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.