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Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
16/02/2011 - Alpinism
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
China climbing action by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand
29/11/2010 - Alpinism
China climbing action by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand
Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand have carried out a series of stunning climbs in the Minya Konka range in western China.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
New route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
28/07/2009 - Alpinism
New route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet and the Frenchmen Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have made the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO), a new difficult route up the North Face of the Matterhorn.
Ricardo Scarian frees Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and repeats Thin Ice 8c at Terlago
27/04/2009 - Climbing
Ricardo Scarian frees Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and repeats Thin Ice 8c at Terlago
On 23 April Ricardo Scarian carried out the first ascent of Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and the first repeat of Thin Ice 8c at Terlago, Italy
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
First winter ascents on Ben Nevis and Lake District
08/12/2008 - Alpinism
First winter ascents on Ben Nevis and Lake District
Perfect winter conditions in Great Britain have resulted in a series of first ascents on Ben Nevis in Scotland and in the Lake District in England.
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
18/11/2008 - Alpinism
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
Last summer Ales Holc, Matej Smrkolj e Tadej Kriselj carried out the first ascent of Slovenian birthday party (TD+, 1000m) on the North Face of Pik Parashutny 5360m. Tine Marence and Andrej Magajne carried out the probabile first repeat of thee Slovenian Route on Pik Troglav and a quick ascent...
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
10/11/2008 - Alpinism
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
Japanese mountaineers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano have received the 3rd Piolet d'or Asia for their new route up the N Face of Kalanka (Garhwal, India, Himalaya).
Le demon du Midì, new route on Punta Grassi, Mont Blanc
13/08/2008 - Alpinism
Le demon du Midì, new route on Punta Grassi, Mont Blanc
E. Bonfanti, E. Bonino, L. Maspes, R. Roetti and P. Stroppiana have completed 'Diretta allo scudo Le demon du Midì', a new route up the ESE Face of Punta Grassi (3095m) at Rochefort, Val Ferret - Mont Blanc.
Cerro Piergiorgio: Brenna and Barmasse summit
09/02/2008 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio: Brenna and Barmasse summit
At 2.00am local time on 08/02/08 Cristian Brenna and Hervé Barmasse reached the summit ofl Cerro Piergiorgio (Patagonia) via a direct line up the NW Face.
K2 Russian West Face expedition climbs new route
29/08/2007 - Alpinism
K2 Russian West Face expedition climbs new route
On 21 August a Russian expedition successfully summited K2 via a direct line up the West Face.
Himalaya: Mondinelli, Enzio, Confortola and Gobbi summit Shisha Pangma
09/05/2006 - Alpinism
Himalaya: Mondinelli, Enzio, Confortola and Gobbi summit Shisha Pangma
At 11.30 Tibetan time Silvio Mondinelli reached the Main summit of Shisha Panga, 8027m. He was joined by Michele Enzio, Marco Confortola, Cristian Gobbi and Julian della Gallizia.
Linea di Eleganza, Fitz Roy: first repeat and free ascent by Caldwell, Donahue and Roed
03/03/2006 - Alpinism
Linea di Eleganza, Fitz Roy: first repeat and free ascent by Caldwell, Donahue and Roed
Linea di Eleganza, the route first climbed by Elio Orlandi, Horacio Codò and Luca Fava in February 2004 on Fitz Roy, has been repeated for the first time and freed in one single push at 5.12+ by the Americans Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue and Erik Roed.

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