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Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
27/10/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
Interview with Adam Ondra who on 20/10/2009 made the first ascent of his hardest route ever, Marina Superstar at Bronx at the crag Grotta San Giovanni in Sardinia. The young Czech climber has "suggested" 9a+/b!
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
26/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
23/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Roby Piantoni
16/10/2009 - Alpinism
Roby Piantoni
Manuel Lugli remembers Roby Piantoni, the Italian alpinist from Bergamo who lost his life yesterday on Shisha Pangma, Tibet.
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
13/10/2009 - Climbing
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
09/10/2009 - Climbing
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
At the start of October Lisa Benetti climbed Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo, Italy.
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
05/10/2009 - Climbing
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
In August 2009 Kilian Fischhuber from Austria freed Airstar Fb8b, a long-standing problem at Rocklands, South Africa.
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic who on 20/09/2009 made the first ascent of an old Alexander Huber project, Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol, Austria.
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Stevie Haston frees Descente Lolitta 9a
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston frees Descente Lolitta 9a
52 year old British climber Stevie Haston has made the first ascent of Descente Lolitta 9a at the Grotte de Sabart in Ariege, France.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
28/08/2009 - Climbing
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
Two of Britain's most emblematic sport routes, Hubble 8c+ at Raven Tor and Liquid Ambar 8c at Lower Pen Trwyn, have recently been repeated by Steve McClure and Pete Robins respectively. The two climbs in question were established in 1990 by none other than Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt and...
New route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
28/07/2009 - Alpinism
New route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet and the Frenchmen Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have made the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO), a new difficult route up the North Face of the Matterhorn.
Rio Gere, climbing at Cortina, Dolomites
21/07/2009 - Climbing
Rio Gere, climbing at Cortina, Dolomites
The routes and news from Rio Gere, the crag close to Cortina in the Dolomites ideal to escape the summer heat.