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Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous...
IFSC World Climbing Championships Paris 2016
13/09/2016 - Competitions
IFSC World Climbing Championships Paris 2016
From 14 - 18 September 2016 the best sport climbers in the world compete in Paris for the 2016 IFSC World Climbing and Paraclimbing Championships.500 athletes will compete in the three disciplines Lead, Speed and Boulder.
Rock Junior & Under 14 Cup: the future of climbing at Arco
05/09/2016 - Competitions
Rock Junior & Under 14 Cup: the future of climbing at Arco
From 2 - 4 September at Arco, Italy, more than 200 young athletes aged between 7 -13 from 22 different countries took part in the Under 14 Cup climbing competition with its three disciplines Boulder, Lead and Speed. The Rock Junior climbing celebration came to an end with the traditional...
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
24/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
Within the context of the Rock Master Festival 2016, the Lead World Cup and the Speed World Cup now return to Italy. 199 athletes from 28 different nations will compete on Friday 26 and on Saturday 27 August at the Arco Climbing Stadium (Garda Trentino). Sunday’s competitions continue with the...
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
18/08/2016 - Events
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll...
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
30/07/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
18/07/2016 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
The second stage of IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Villars, Switzerland last weekend and was won by Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl. The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Marcin Dzienski of poland and Anouck Jaubert of France.
Lead World Cup 2016: live streaming from Villars in Switzerland
16/07/2016 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2016: live streaming from Villars in Switzerland
The second stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 is currently taking place at Villars in Switzerland and will be broadcast in live streaming. The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won last night by Marcin Dzienski of poland and Anouck Jaubert of France.
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic win in Chamonix
13/07/2016 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic win in Chamonix
Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Domen Skofic won the first stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 at Chamonix, France, last night. The third stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Anouk Jaubert and Marcin Dzienski. The report by Giovanni Canton.
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
Marcin Tomaszewski discovers Thor on Norway's Preikestolen
04/06/2016 - Climbing
Marcin Tomaszewski discovers Thor on Norway's Preikestolen
On Preikestolen - Pulpit Rock - in Norway Marcin Tomaszewski from poland has made the first ascent of the amazing single pitch climb Thor.
  • Update 30/06/2016: Working closely with the local climbing community, Tomaszewski has agreed to remove the bolts in the near future and plans are, if possible, to lead...
  • Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
    20/05/2016 - Climbing
    Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
    In April 2016 Jonas Wallin from Sweden and David Kaszlikowski from poland established Fever Dreams (7c max, 9 pitches) on the previously unclimbed Mumbar cliff in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman island, Malaysia. To access the mountain team had to find and cut new trail in the jungle.
    Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
    07/04/2016 - Alpinism
    Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
    From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
    Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
    25/02/2016 - Alpinism
    Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
    52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
    Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
    14/01/2016 - Alpinism
    Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
    The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...
    Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
    21/12/2015 - Climbing
    Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
    Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.