143 News found

Maurizio Oviglia introduces Rataplan (175m, 7a+ max (6b obligatory) /RS2/I), a new multi-pitch climb first ascended together with Damiano Ceresa on 1 August and freed a few days later with with Cecilia Marchi up the Parete della Grande Ala, Chiapili di Sotto, Valle dell'Orco in Italy.

Ivo Ferrari and diamonds are forever. On via Diamante pazzo (250m, 6a+) the beautiful route established in 1984 by Roberto Perucca and Rinaldo Sartore up the East Face of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, Gran Paradiso, Italy. With a text by Gianmario Bellini in memory of Roberto Perucca.

In April 2013, Stephanie Bodet, Yong Liu, Arnaud Petit, David Kaszlikowski and Tam Khairudin Haja made the first ascent of Damai Sentosa (280m, 6c+, 6b+ oblig) up the Dragon Horns (Bukit Nenek Simukut) on Tioman Island, Malaysia.

Czech climbers Jan Kares and Slavek Dostal establish the multi-pitch route Megalodon (220m, 7b+) at Dinopark, Baunei, Sardinia.

The video of the march 2013 attempt by Andy Kirkpatrick, Ross Kain and Neil Chelton to repeat the Russian route up the North Face of the Eiger.

On 13/02/2013 Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the ice and mixed climb Ritter der Kokosnuß (M12, WI5, 165m) up the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland.

On Norway's Senja island Ines Papert has made the first ascent of Finnmannen (M9+ WI7, 400m) together with Bent Vidar Eilertsen.

The Arctic Dreams expedition comprised of Steve Bradshaw, Dave Glass, Clinton Marteningo, Andrew Porter and Captain Bob Shepton has made the first ascent of Bonfire of the Vanities on Polar Molar, Baffin Island.

On Saturday 27 July 2012 Jospeh Mayerl, the legendary alpinist from Tyrol, Austria, died aged 75 which climbing in the Lienzer Dolomites.

On 17 and 18 July Italian alpinist and mountain guide Rossano Libera made the first solo ascent and second repeat of the Direttissima Memento Mori route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. A route and ascent which many define as the "most hair-raising" on the entire face.

In summer 2011 the Swiss climbers Jürgen Bissig, Jvan Tresch, Pascal Siegrist and the photographer Robert Boesch established "Out of Space (600m 8a+/A1) on Chalchschijen in Switzerland.

Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have carried out the first ascent of the superb mixed ice climb Spray On... Top! (230m, W10, M9+) at the Helmcken Falls, Canada, the route Emmett had started with Will Gadd. Tim Emmett shares the details.

In April 2011 Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland established Polish Princess (7b+max, 270m) on Dragon Horns (Bukit Nanek Simukut) on Tioman Island, Malaysia.

On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).

Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).

Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.