1790 News found

On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.

On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.

Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.

At Moab (USA) Jean-Pierre Ouellet has made the first ascents of two difficult new climbs: Mexican Snow Fairy 5.13+ and Fisting the Crack 5.13-.

On Cerro Murallón in Patagonia Lise Billon, Pedro Diaz, François Poncet, Jeremy Stagnetto, Jerome Sullivan have made the first ascent of Sol Naciente (1000m, 7b A1 WI6 M6).

I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.

The Briançon Gendarmerie is continuing its search for Francesco Cantù, Damiano Barabino and Luca Gaggianese, the three Italian alpinists who have been missing for 4 days in the Écrins massif (Dauphiné Alps, France).

On 03/10/2012 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of "Relikt Noichl Wörndl" (350m, 8b/8b+) in Austria's Wilder Kaiser mountain chain.

On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the South Face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic Tyndall (ED / 1300mt ). This is likely to be...

On 20/11/2012 Julien Herry, Francesco Civra Dano, Luca Rolli and Davide Capozzi skied and snowboarded down the famous Mallory Route on Aiguille du Midi in a 14-hour round-trip starting from Chamonix.

On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.

On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.

On Friday 16 November 2012 Patrick Edlinger died aged 52. The Frenchman was one of the early pioneers and absolute legends of sport climbing.

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

The 7th Piolet d’Or Asia 2012 was held in Seoul, Korea on 9/11/2012. The alpine award went to the Korean mountaineers Kim Chang-ho and An Chi-young, as well as Zhou Peng and Lee Shuang. Denis Urbko from Kazakhstan won the achievement award.