1628 News found

Yesterday the Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2013 started at Les Ecrins in France with the "Team Race" competition, won by France's William Bon Mardion & Matheo Jacquemoud and by Laetitia Roux & Axelle Mollaret. Silver went to the Italian teams comprised of Matteo Eydallin & Manfred Reichegger and of Gloriana...

Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.

The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.

On the Breitwangflue in Switzerland Dani Arnold has climbed three difficult ice and mixed routes, Flying Circus, Mach 3 and Crack Baby in a single day.

On 18/01/2013, Davide Capozzi, Manu Gross and Julien Herry made the first complete snowboard descent of Couloir Jess, Flammes de Pierre (Mont Blanc).

On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).

The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).

On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).

On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.

12/01/2013. Cheongsong, South Korea: this is where Italian ice climber Angelika Rainer triumphed once again, becoming Ice Climbing World Champion for the third time in a row after her victories in 2009 and 2011. The men's title was won by Russia's Alexey Tomilov.

Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Mathias Nössig have made the first ascent of three difficult new icefalls in the Ötztal, Austria, including Rätselburg (WI7+, 80m).

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

On 04/01/2013 Davide Capozzi, Julien Herry and Luca Rolli made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Face Sud Est dell'Aiguille du Chardonnet (Mont Blanc).

Two difficult new routes in the Brenta Dolomites: the mixed climb 'Brothers' up Cima Grostè and the rock climb 'Ladri' up Campanile Basso.

Two videos, Euphoria by Firdaus Hashim and 4.5 million seconds in Nepal by Artur Wyszecki offer a vision of Nepal, from Himalayan trekking to Everest and the complexities of everyday life.