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Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
12/02/2013 - Alpinism
Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
A report of the recent new winter routes climbed in Scotland which include Shooting the Breeze (IX,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) and Immortal Memory (IX,9 Guy Robertson, Jason Currie) on Beinn Eighe, Vapourizer (VIII,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) on Creag an Dubh Loch, No Success Like Failure (IX,8 Simon Richardson,...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2013: Park and Hrozová take gold in Busteni
11/02/2013 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2013: Park and Hrozová take gold in Busteni
The 4th stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2013 took place in Busteni, Busteni in Romania was won by Park Heeyong and Lucie Hrozova. Angelika Rainer placed 7th but retains the lead of the overall ranking
Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2013: France wins Team Race, Italy takes silver
11/02/2013 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2013: France wins Team Race, Italy takes silver
Yesterday the Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2013 started at Les Ecrins in France with the "Team Race" competition, won by France's William Bon Mardion & Matheo Jacquemoud and by Laetitia Roux & Axelle Mollaret. Silver went to the Italian teams comprised of Matteo Eydallin & Manfred Reichegger and of Gloriana...
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
06/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
01/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
29/01/2013 - Climbing
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.
Dani Arnold's Breitwangflue ice climbing marathon
25/01/2013 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold's Breitwangflue ice climbing marathon
On the Breitwangflue in Switzerland Dani Arnold has climbed three difficult ice and mixed routes, Flying Circus, Mach 3 and Crack Baby in a single day.
Flammes de Pierre, first descent by Capozzi, Herry and Gross
Flammes de Pierre, first descent by Capozzi, Herry and Gross
On 18/01/2013, Davide Capozzi, Manu Gross and Julien Herry made the first complete snowboard descent of Couloir Jess, Flammes de Pierre (Mont Blanc).
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
20/01/2013 - Alpinism
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Angelika Rainer Ice Climbing World Champion hattrick. Alexey Tomilov wins men's title
13/01/2013 - Competitions
Angelika Rainer Ice Climbing World Champion hattrick. Alexey Tomilov wins men's title
12/01/2013. Cheongsong, South Korea: this is where Italian ice climber Angelika Rainer triumphed once again, becoming Ice Climbing World Champion for the third time in a row after her victories in 2009 and 2011. The men's title was won by Russia's Alexey Tomilov.
Ötztal, difficult new Austrian icefalls by Auer, Wilhelm and Nössig
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Ötztal, difficult new Austrian icefalls by Auer, Wilhelm and Nössig
Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Mathias Nössig have made the first ascent of three difficult new icefalls in the Ötztal, Austria, including Rätselburg (WI7+, 80m).
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 -  part 2
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 2
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Aiguille du Chardonnet, first ski descent by Capozzi, Herry and Rolli
Aiguille du Chardonnet, first ski descent by Capozzi, Herry and Rolli
On 04/01/2013 Davide Capozzi, Julien Herry and Luca Rolli made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Face Sud Est dell'Aiguille du Chardonnet (Mont Blanc).