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Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
Odyssey, free streaming for 10 days
09/11/2012 - Climbing
Odyssey, free streaming for 10 days
From tomorrow evening and for 10 days it will be possible to watch the latest Hot Aches Productions film for free: Odyssey staring Hansjörg Auer, Caroline Ciavaldini, Hazel Findlay and James Pearson.
First ascent of Kemailong in China's Shaluli Shan
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
First ascent of Kemailong in China's Shaluli Shan
In China's Shaluli Shan mountain range Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi have made the first ascent of Kemailong (5870m).
Climb for Life, a new website and campaign to raise awareness
05/11/2012 - Climbing
Climb for Life, a new website and campaign to raise awareness
The new website Climb for Life [www.climbforlife.it] went online on 1 October 2012. This aims at providing the climbing community with information about bone marrow donation. The initiative and new campaign to raise awareness is entitled: "You don’t have to be big".
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
Adam Ondra - a multi-pitch interview
24/10/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra - a multi-pitch interview
The Czech climbing phenomenon Adam Ondra talks about competitions, his first months after high school, climbing at his limit and future projects in this detailed interview.
San Vito Lo Capo Climbing Festival 2012 and Sicily’s first 9a
22/10/2012 - Events
San Vito Lo Capo Climbing Festival 2012 and Sicily’s first 9a
Nicola Noè’s report of the recent San Vito Lo Capo Climbing Festival 2012 and Climb for Life, the first 9a sport climb in Sicily freed by Adam Ondra.
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.
Puscanturpa Este, new Dutch route in Peru
09/10/2012 - Alpinism
Puscanturpa Este, new Dutch route in Peru
In August 2012 Dutch climbers Bas van der Smeede, Elly van der Plas, Bas Visscher, Vincent van Beek and Saskia van der Smeede established Poco Loco, a new route up the previously unclimbed North Face of Puscanturpa Este (5410m), Andes, Peru. The report by Bas van der Smeede.
Aleksandra Taistra climbs Così Fan Tutte 8c+ at Rodellar
08/10/2012 - Climbing
Aleksandra Taistra climbs Così Fan Tutte 8c+ at Rodellar
This summer Polish sport climber Aleksandra Taistra sent Così Fan Tutte 8c+ at Rodellar, Spain.
Lead World Cup, Jain Kim and Ramon Julian Puigblanque win in Puurs
25/09/2012 - Competitions
Lead World Cup, Jain Kim and Ramon Julian Puigblanque win in Puurs
The 4th stage of the Lead World Cup 2012 was won last weekend by Jain Kim from Korea and Ramon Julian Puigblanque from Spain. Reigning World Champion Jacob Schubert was disqualified for having used a means of communication while in isolation.
Ala Daglar, climbing in Turkey through the eyes of Petit and Bodet
18/09/2012 - Alpinism
Ala Daglar, climbing in Turkey through the eyes of Petit and Bodet
Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet recently climbed in the Ala Daglar massif in Turkey where they carried out, amongst others, the first repeat of Red moon and Star put up by Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi.
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
17/09/2012 - Competitions
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
The 12th World Climbing Championship took place in Paris last week. Lead was won by the Austrians Jakob Schubert and - for a record breaking fourth time - Angela Eiter. Boulder was won by Mélanie Sandoz from France and - for the third time - Dmitry Sharafudtinov from Russia. Yuliya...
Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.
Seynes climbing ban to 15 September 2012
05/09/2012 - Climbing
Seynes climbing ban to 15 September 2012
Climbing is prohibited at the French crag Seynes until 15 September 2012.
Rock Master Lead: Eiter and Puigblanque top the Semifinal
01/09/2012 - Competitions
Rock Master Lead: Eiter and Puigblanque top the Semifinal
Angela Eiter and Ramon Julien Puigblanque qualify for the Rock Master Lead with today's only two tops. All the best qualify for the Lead final including Adam Ondra (2°), Jakob Schubert (3°), Jorg Verhoeven (4à). Italian hopes high for Jenny Lavarda (3a) and Silvio Reffo (7°).