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Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
16/01/2009 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
Last weekend Gabriele Moroni visited the historic Lumignano Classica in N. Italy and returned home with a climbing sweep-stake: flash ascents of Boomerang 8a+ and Atomic Café 8a, and a fantastic 2nd go ascent of Mare Allucinante 8b+.
Ice World Cup 2009: the start with the Ice Master in Daone
15/01/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009: the start with the Ice Master in Daone
The 8th Ice Master will take place in Valle di Daone, Italy from 16 - 25 January. With its Difficulty and Speed events, this competition marks the start of the ice Climbing World Cup 2009. The 11th edition of the La Sportiva International Ice Meeting is open to all and...
Ice climbing in Tyrol, Austria
13/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Tyrol, Austria
A selction of some of the best and most representative icefalls in the Tyrol, Austria, by local Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried.
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
07/12/2008 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
On 2 December the Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Fabio Salini carried out a fast ascent of the Via dei Ragni on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. This route was also climbed the previous day by Rolando Garibotti and Co.
Help Jim Bridwell
03/12/2008 - Climbing
Help Jim Bridwell
A group of Italian friends and mountain guides has created a fund to help Jim Bridwell, the American climber and mountaineer, overcome a difficult moment.
Help Jim Bridwell
03/12/2008 - Alpinism
Help Jim Bridwell
A group of Italian friends and mountain guides has created a fund to help Jim Bridwell, the American climber and mountaineer, overcome a difficult moment.
On sight by Alastair Lee
03/11/2008 - Book-press
On sight by Alastair Lee
Filmmaker Alastair Lee gives exclusive insight into his latest climbing film, On sight, which examines the unpredictable, exciting and at times dangerous game of on-sighting trad routes, regardless of the grade of the climb.
Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent
12/10/2008 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent
At the end of September and the start of October Maurizio Oviglia, Sara Oviglia, Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti completed two new multi-pitch routes on the Sergent rock face in Valle Orco. They then added two single pitches to the wall and another to the Dado.
Rêve Caché, new route on Mont Blanc
07/10/2008 - Alpinism
Rêve Caché, new route on Mont Blanc
On 29/09/08 Enrico Bonino and Paolo Stroppiana made the first ascent of Rêve Caché (700m, 5+ MR 4c) up the east face of Pointe d'Androsace, located in the Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc.
AlexAnna, new route by Rolando Larcher on Marmolada, Dolomites
17/09/2008 - Climbing
AlexAnna, new route by Rolando Larcher on Marmolada, Dolomites
At the end of August 2008 Rolando Larcher completed AlexAnna (700m, 8a+/8b, 7b obl.), a new route up Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia (Marmolada, Dolomites).
In memory of Pavle Kozjek
12/09/2008 - Alpinism
In memory of Pavle Kozjek
Pavle Kozjek was officially declared dead on 11 September after disappearing on Muztagh Tower on 25 August 2008. A commemoration service will be held on 17 September in Ljubljana, Slovenia.