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New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
14/09/2009 - Climbing
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of "Power of Silence" 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada.
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
09/09/2009 - Climbing
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
In August 2009 the Spanish brothers Eneko and Iker Pou carried out the first ascent of Orbayu 8c+/9a, 510m Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route ever.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Red Bull X-Alps 2009 – the grand finale
31/07/2009 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2009 – the grand finale
The Red Bull X-Alps, the most audacious and extreme competition in the world, came to an end today at 11.24. Christian Mauer won with a 48 hour advantage over closest rival Alex Hofer (SUI1), while Honza Rekmanek (USA) placed third.
Sci Club 18, new via ferrata in the Dolomites
23/07/2009 - Trekking
Sci Club 18, new via ferrata in the Dolomites
A new via ferrata called "Sci Club 18" has been created on Monte Faloria in Cortina, Dolomites.
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
02/07/2009 - Climbing
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
Stanage Edge, rock climbing at England's most famous gritstone crag
29/06/2009 - Climbing
Stanage Edge, rock climbing at England's most famous gritstone crag
Stanage Edge is the most famous gritstone crag in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this 7km outcrop hosts over 1300 climbs of all grades.
Stanage Edge, rock climbing in England
23/06/2009 - Climbing
Stanage Edge, rock climbing in England
Stanage Edge is the most famous gritstone crag in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this 7km outcrop hosts over 1300 climbs of all grades.
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
26/05/2009 - Alpinism
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
Edurne Pasaban with Kanchenjunga and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner with Lhotse have reached the summit of 12 8000m peaks. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet on the other hand have had to abandon their Kanchenjunga summit bid and have therefore climbed 11. The thoughts of Manuel Lugli about this female "race" to complete...
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
02/04/2009 - Climbing
La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
On 14/03/2009 Luca Zardini carried out the first ascent of "La linea dei Sogni" (8c+), the extension to the legendary "Sogni di Gloria" at Erto (Italy).
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...