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Simon Anthamatten interview
08/02/2010 - Interviews
Simon Anthamatten interview
Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
20/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Roby project 8c/9a?
05/01/2010 - Climbing
Roby project 8c/9a?
It all took place at Terlago in Valle del Sarca, a stone's throw from Arco, Italy. But the story Manolo tells about this project which no longer exists could perhaps have taken place at any old crag...
7 die in avalanche in Dolomites
28/12/2009 - Alpinism
7 die in avalanche in Dolomites
Two hikers died on 26/12/2009 in Val Lasties (Dolomites), as did four members of the Val di Fassa Mountain Rescue Squad. At Solda a 12 year old boy went missing while skiing off-piste.
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
20/11/2009 - Alpinism
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
14/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the South Face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
13/11/2009 - Alpinism
Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
The details of the first ascent of the 1800m high North Face of Chang Himal, Kanchenjunga Himalaya, Nepal, climbed in a five day alpine-style push by the British alpinists Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman at ED+.
Cerro Torre expedition for David Lama and Daniel Steuerer
12/11/2009 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre expedition for David Lama and Daniel Steuerer
Interview with David Lama prior to his expedition to Cerro Torre, Patagonia together with Daniel Steuerer. The two Austrians have an important objective: to attempt the first free ascent of the famous Compressor Route.
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
09/11/2009 - Environment
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
Climbing and other low-impact sports such as canoing and hiking may be at risk at the planned Calanques National Park in France. A group called "Association des Calanques et des Hommes" is asking for climbers to sign their petition online in order to participate in roundtable discussions for the management...
Chang Himal North Face first ascent for Bullock and Houseman
05/11/2009 - Alpinism
Chang Himal North Face first ascent for Bullock and Houseman
British alpinists Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman have succeeded on the hitherto unclimbed North Face of Chang Himal, Kanchenjunga Himalaya, Nepal.
Bhagirathi new routes for Prezelj, Blagus and Lindic
26/10/2009 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi new routes for Prezelj, Blagus and Lindic
In September the Slovenians Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj climbed three new routes in the Bhagirathi group located in the Gangotri region in the Indian Himalaya.
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
13/10/2009 - Alpinism
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
The history of Eternal Flame and an interview with Alexander Huber after the first free ascent of the route which climbs the Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum.
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Dolomites climbing: Hansjörg Auer frees Silberschrei on Sass de la Crusc and on-sights La Cattedrale in Marmolada together with Much Mayr
12/08/2009 - Alpinism
Dolomites climbing: Hansjörg Auer frees Silberschrei on Sass de la Crusc and on-sights La Cattedrale in Marmolada together with Much Mayr
An intense couple of months for Hansjörg Auer: together with Thomas Schreiber he recently carried out the first ascent of Silberschrei on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites, before a lightening fast trip to England with Much Mayr which resulted in a fast ascent of Gaia. The two then...

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