1189 News found

Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the north face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.

In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of 'Power of Silence' 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada.

Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.

On 14/07/2009 Manfred Stuffer soloed the routes Geo, Regenbogen, Quo Vadis, Brusin and Brugger Walde on the Sella, Dolomites, in a mere 3.5 hours.

Riccardo Cassin passed away last night at his home in Resinelli at the foot of his beloved Grigna mountain. Cassin was one of the world's all time absolute mountaineering legends. He had celebrated his 100th birthday on 2 January this year.

Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet and the Frenchmen Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have made the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO), a new difficult route up the north face of the Matterhorn.

Swiss climber Stephan Siegrist has made the first successful redpoint ascent of "Magic Mushroom" up the north face of the Eiger. The route had been established in 2007 by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz and leads up the 3219 metres high mushroom in 21 pitches and now goes free at...

On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.

Denis Urubko, with his recent new route up the SE Face of Cho Oyu, has climbed all fourteen 8000m summits.

In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the north face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.

The sixth Melloblocco starts today in the splendid Val di Mello, Val Masino, Italy. Thousands of climbers gather every year at this international bouldering meeting, which will come to an end on Sunday 10 May.

In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos Lindos (5.11-) on Pirita Central.

Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...

The sixth edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy). This annual international bouldering meeting attracts thousands of boulderers and climbers from all over the world.

On 31/01/2009 Roberto Misson and Luca Chiarcos carried out the first ascent of "La prima volta" (60m, II 3+ M5+) at Fusine Laghi (Tarvisio).

The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...