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Matthias Trottmann climbing his Piz Dal Nas (8b, 500m), Titlis, Switzerland
Photo by Klaus Kranebitter
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Piz Dal Nas, hard Titlis ascent by Matthias Trottmann

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At the end of August Matthias Trottmann completed his biggest project to date, Piz dal Nas (8b, 500m) up the North Face of Titlis, Switzerland.

Swiss climber Matthias Trottmann had established the route in summer 2008 together with Matthias and Thomas König and Daniel Schulze, and Trottmann finally freed the mammoth 500m 8b outing on 26 August together with climbing partner Martin Jaggi.

Making the most on the last decent day of summer, the duo swung leads along the first rather alpine pitches up to the "Hotel Titlis" alcove at pitch 8. After a short coffee break, Trottmann went on to repoint the remaining pitches: things ran smoothly on the first 8b, while the second crux pitch was dispatched with on the third attempt. One final pitch, up the exposed 45° overhanging nose barred the way to the top, but despite some rather loose sections this too was climbed first go to create Trottmann's hardest to-date.

In 2006 Trottmann established 6.4 seconds (8b, 170m) on the Engelberg and in the meantime he has amassed a series of hard multi-pitch repeats such as Silbergeier (8b+, Rätikon, Beat Kammerlander 1993), Hotel Supramonte (8b, 400m Rolando Larcher & Roberto Vigiani 1998) and Last exit Titlis (8b, 500m, Titlis, Stefan Glowacz 2004).

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