1488 News found

04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.

03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was established in December 2018 by Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski.

29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.

20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...

13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...

13/05/2024 - Alpinism
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti Walter Bonatti, Mont Blanc, his mountaineering. The new episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy takes you on a journey through history and time. After a visit to the National Museum of the Mountain, Federica Mingolla and Alberto Boschiazzo climb to the summit of Grand Capucin via the 'Bonatti-Ghigo' route,...

06/05/2024 - Alpinism
Ski mountaineering giant Denis Trento perishes in Italian Alps The Italian mountain guide and former ski mountaineering champion Denis Trento perished on Friday at the age of 41 on the north face of Testa del Paramont in Valle d'Aosta.

30/04/2024 - Climbing
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou On the SW Face of Jebel Oujdad Iñaki Marco and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of 'Bihotz Handi' (7c/320m).

25/04/2024 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.

24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across rock, snow, and ice, this has been described as 'the...

18/04/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.

02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.

15/03/2024 - Alpinism
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez On 24 and 25 February 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Arma de doble filo' (5.11+, A1, 800m) on the East face of La Espada in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.

05/03/2024 - Climbing
Shauna Coxsey boulders 8B+ in La Pedriza, Spain At La Pedriza in Spain, British rock climber Shauna Coxsey climbed 'Fotofobia Sit' (8B+/V14+).
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