New climb added to Mont Noir de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra

Whenever we went up to Rifugio Borelli, or to climb the Alexius or Magan routes, we would consider whether it might be possibile to establish a route that leads directly to the hut.

This summer, the opportunity finally arose. We went to take a closer look and were immediately struck by the line and the first few pitches, which were extremely beautiful and on excellent rock. It took three full days to complete and clean the line - a perfect 650m outing that lead up to Rifugio Borelli. However, be warned: despite the bolts on the wall, this is by means a sport climb but an alpine route, where you must pay attention to route-finding and be proficient at placing cams.

We dedicate Diretta al Borelli to a very special person for us, Luciano Mareliati, known to everyone as Lucianone, who unfortunately passed away in a car accident on 30 October 2023. Lucianone was a mountain guide at the Courmayeur Guides and also a ski instructor. He was an enthusiastic photographer, keen on the history of mountaineering, and was the curator of the Duca degli Abruzzi Alpine Museum in Courmayeur..

- Niccolò Bruni, Courmayeur

Link: www.guidecourmayeur.com