Diretta al Borelli - Mont Noir de Peuterey

Niccolò Bruni
1 / 8
The first ascent of 'Diretta al Borelli' al Mont Noir de Peuterey, Mont Blanc (Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra summer 2025)
Archivio Niccolò Bruni
Beauty
First ascent
Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, 16,18/07 e 06/09/2025
By
Niccolò Bruni
Orientation
South
Length
650m
Difficulty
6a
Obligatory difficulty
5c
Departure
Val Veny
Published on
17/09/2025

Route



Diretta al Borelli is a beautiful 650-meter line that reaches the Rifugio Borelli hut on Mont Noir de Peuterey. Dspite the bolts on the wall, this is by means a sport climb but an alpine route, where you must pay attention to route-finding and be proficient at placing cams.

Getting there

From Courmayeur, proceed to Val Veny and leave the at the parking lot at Peuterey, opposite the La Sorgente campground.

Access

The approach takes approximately 30 minutes from the car. From Peuterey, follow the signs for Rifugio Borelli. Upon reaching the first fork, take the gravel track on the right, which ascends for about 100 meters. At a certain point, the trail to the refuge continues to the left, do not take it. Instead, continue along the gravel track until this ends. Follow a faint path to a water collection basin, pass it, and after about 20 meters, take a vague trail on the right that ascends diagonally leftward. Pass through the pines to find the trail marked by a few cairns. Eventually, you will reach a water drainage channel, do not cross but, instewad, scramble up to the right following a vague trail and manageable terrain. After about 50 meters, the first bolt with a white sling will come into view.

GPS coordinates: 45°48'15.5"N 6°54'46.8"E; 45.804298, 6.913012

Itinerary

P1: 5c 5 bolts + 1 friend
P2: 5b 4 bolts + 3 friends + plant
P3: 6a 7 bolts + 1 friend
P4: 30m transfer pitch, abseil station on tree
P5: 5c 7 bolts
P6: 3c 1 bolts
P7: 4a 4 bolts
P8: 5a 5 bolts
P9: 4c 2 bolts + sling on plant
P10: 4a 2 bolts + 1 friend
P11: 4a 2 bolts + 1 friend
P12: 3c 2 bolts
P13: 3c 2 bolts
P14: 4c 2 bolts
P15: 5c 5 bolts + 4 friends
P16: 4c 2 bolts + 3 friends
P17: 4b 3 o 4 friends
P18: 3c 1 o 2 friends
P19: 3c Head to the obvious tree
P20: 4a 1 bolts and 1 or 2 friends
P21: 3c 2 bolts (blue) 60m pitch

Descent

The recommended descent is on foot via the via ferrata from Rifugio Borelli, but it is possible to abseil down the route.

Gear

1 x 60m rope, 8 quickdraws. A set of cams BD C4 from 0.3 - 2.






Comments

Info

You must fill all fields

Thanks for sending us your comment!
It will be visible as soon as it has been approved.

Wrong verification code

You must wait 2 minutes before commenting again.


No comments yet...
Beauty
First ascent
Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, 16,18/07 e 06/09/2025
By
Niccolò Bruni
Orientation
South
Length
650m
Difficulty
6a
Obligatory difficulty
5c
Departure
Val Veny
Published on
17/09/2025

Route



Position



Routes in the same mountain group

Show more in Mont Blanc

Related news


Related mountain huts