Saro Costa sets FKT from Val Bregaglia to Val Masino via Piz Badile North Ridge

On Wednesday the 13th of August Saro Costa completed a dream traverse at breakneck speed in the heart of the Central Alps, climbing Pizzo Badile via its historic North Ridge, after starting in Val Bregaglia and finishing in Val Masino. The 36-year-old mountain guide required just 4 hours and 28 minutes for the entire trip which, as he quite states "needs no introduction."

After getting a lift to Bondo early in the morning, Costa started from the fountain in villager square. He reached the Sasc Furä Hut in just 1 hour and 5 minutes; 50 minutes later he was already at the foot of the Ridge. One thousand meters of pure granite awaited, first climbed by Swiss alpinists Walter Risch and Alfred Zürcher on 4 August 1923 and graded IV+/V-, were negotiated in his climbing shoes in just 1 hour. This is not the Fastest Known Time up the famous Spigolo Nord, as the FKT belongs to Filip Babicz who stopped the clock at 42 minutes in 2021, but it is nonetheless an utterly astounding time given the elevation gain Costa had already completed. Then, after the obligatory photo on the 3308-meter summit of Badile, Costa literally launched himself down the normal route towards Val Masino. 34 minutes later he was at the Gianetti Hut, 4 hours and 28 minutes after setting off he plunged into the fountain in San Martino. Insane. Also insane is the fact that, according to the Italian, it should be possible to improve the time further and complete the trip in under 4 hours.

Meanwhile, writing on his Instagram handle, Costa recounted: "A little dream that came about almost by chance, built upon step by step, without being in a hurry.️

In 2023 I did a recce trip from Bondo in Val Bregaglia to San Martino in Val Masino, climbing up the North Ridge and down the Normal Route. It was then that I realised that it was possible to move fast and light on this terrain.

As a reference, I chose the two beautiful village fountains (instead of the usual churches).

The route needs no introduction, a classic granite climb in the heart of the Central Alps, on a beautiful mountain straddling two worlds to which I feel very attached.

I also really like the different characteristics involved in this undertaking, running and climbing, two disciplines that in my opinion don't get along all too well and that consequently make the tour complete and interesting to prepare.

Studying and getting to know the route, training, choosing the right moment, selecting the gear, organising the logistics, and then finally setting off.

The beauty lies almost entirely in the preparation phase, not only in the execution; if the preparation is done well then the final outcome is almost guaranteed.

The time I set is a consequence of the choices made, from physical preparation to risk management, from nutrition to footwear.

I'd like thank the Sasc Furä Hut and the Gianetti Hut for the Orangina and Coca Cola, the only external support I used.

I also like thank Giovanni Ongaro for being the friend who drove me to Bondo and welcomed me on the other side in the best way possible."

Saro Costa thanks SKI TRAB

Piz Badile SkyClimb 
Capanna Sasc Fura: 1:05
Base of North Ridge: 1:55
Piz Badile summit: 2:55
Rifugio Gianetti: 3:29
San Martino: 4:28
4:28:25, 20.58 km, D+ 2464m D- 2349m