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Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Roger Schaeli repeats Eiger North Face La vida es silbar
16/09/2016 - Climbing
Roger Schaeli repeats Eiger North Face La vida es silbar
Climbing together with Mayan Smith-Gobat, Robert Schaeli has carried out what is believed to be only the second free ascent of the 'La vida es silbar' up the legendary north face of the Eiger, Switzerland. Established in 1998-99 by Daniel Anker and Stephan Siegrist, the 900m line was freed in...
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
07/07/2016 - Climbing
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
In June 2016 Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of Nubivagant - Wandering in the clouds (455m, 5.13d/A0 8b) up Pico Cão Grande on the island of São Tomé, Africa.
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
16/10/2015 - Climbing
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
14/10/2015 - Interviews
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini in 60 giorni in 2008. In 2007, Miha Valic...
New Australian rock climbs in Siberia's Bilibino
13/10/2015 - Climbing
New Australian rock climbs in Siberia's Bilibino
In July and August this year, Chris Fitzgerald, Natasha Sebire and Gemma Woldendorp from Australia climbed several new routes on the previously unclimbed granite wall of the Finger Crack Cirque and on Weasel Tower close to the town of Bilibino, Siberia, Russia.
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Red Bull X-Alps 2015, incredible action on days 1 and 2
07/07/2015 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2015, incredible action on days 1 and 2
The reports of the first two days of the Red Bull X-Alps 2015, the tough advenure race, by paraglider on foot, from Salzburg in Austria to the Principality of Monaco.
Alaska Mount Lucifer: John Frieh and Doug Shepherd climb Agua Sin Gas
29/06/2015 - Alpinism
Alaska Mount Lucifer: John Frieh and Doug Shepherd climb Agua Sin Gas
In May 2015 John Frieh and Doug Shepherd made the first ascent of "Agua Sin Gas" (III WI4/steep snow) up the North Face of Mount Lucifer in Alaska. The trip report by John Frieh.
Vento di passioni, new rock climb on Monte Colodri
12/06/2015 - Climbing
Vento di passioni, new rock climb on Monte Colodri
Stefano Michelazzi talks about Vento di passioni (7-, A1), a new multi-pitch rock climb established with Marco Ghidini on Monte Colodri, Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy).
Jon Griffith and Will Sim make alpine-style first ascent of NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska
04/06/2015 - Alpinism
Jon Griffith and Will Sim make alpine-style first ascent of NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska
British alpinists Jon Griffith and Will Sim have made the first ascent of Bad to the Bone, the first route to climb the NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska.
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
22/09/2014 - Alpinism
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.

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