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Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
16/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
Two prizes awarded last night in Chamonix during the IXX Piolet d'Or: Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama, and the Big Walls in Greenland by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse and Ben Ditto.
Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
15/04/2011 - Events
Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
From 5 - 8 May 2011 the 8th edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy. The Melloblocco is the biggest and most important bouldering meeting in the world and this year it is dedicated to...
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
06/04/2011 - Alpinism
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
Florian Riegler has established Dolasilla (M13-), a new mixed route in Val Travenanzes (Fanes massif, Dolomites). The first free ascent was carried out by Pavol Rajcan from Slovak Republic.
The Peach, mixed trad in Canada by Slawinski and Meekins
05/04/2011 - Alpinism
The Peach, mixed trad in Canada by Slawinski and Meekins
On 12/03/2011 Raphael Slawinski and Grant Meekins established The Peach (110m, WI5 M8) at Storm Creek, Canadian Rockies.
American Alpine Club climbing grants, 2011 deadlines approaching
22/03/2011 - Alpinism
American Alpine Club climbing grants, 2011 deadlines approaching
Every year the American Alpine Club awards more $50,000 every year in the form of climbing, conservation, and research grants to budding adventurers and many 2011 deadlines are fast approaching. Climbers must not necessarily be of USA origin to be...
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the...
Piantobaldo, new route on Monte Presolana in memory of Camos and Piantoni
16/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piantobaldo, new route on Monte Presolana in memory of Camos and Piantoni
On 11/03/2011 Yuri Parimbelli, Tito Arosio and Ennio Spiranelli carried out the first ascent of Piantobaldo (600m, WI 4 M7 A1) up the NW Face of the Western Presolana and dedicated their route to the late Bruno "Camos" Tassi and...
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
01/03/2011 - Alpinism
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
On 01/02/2011 Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz and Thomas Scalise Meynet carried out the first repeat of Papillon (250m IV, 4, M6, 5°) a great modern mixed journey first ascended in 2003 in Valle d'Aosta above Brissogne by Alex Busca, Ezio...
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
23/02/2011 - Alpinism
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
On 6 February 2011 the Italians Luca Maspes, Annalisa Bonfanti and Anna Ceruti climbed Goulotte Santanna (250m) up the South East Face of Sant'Anna 3171m, Val Porcellizzo, Alta Val Masino).
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
14/02/2011 - Alpinism
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
On Sunday 13 February Fabio Valseschini from Lecco, Italy, completed the first solo winter ascent of the great Via dei Cinque di Valmadrera (1350m, VI+ A3) on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites. After 7 bivvies on the mountain and...
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
04/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now reached Base Camp after an arduous descent during which they were hit by an avalanche. This historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan) now draws to a close.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
03/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
02/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
At 11:28 local time Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. This is the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world, a historic climb which is also the first winter...
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
18/01/2011 - Events
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
On 22 December 2010 the Slovenian alpinists Francek Knez and Silvo Karo were awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia's President Dr. Danilo Tuerk. This high state decoration was confirmed on the pair for "their achievements in Slovenian mountain climbing...

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