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Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
06/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
The prize for the best climb of 2012 was awarded at the end of an exciting ceremony in Courmayeur last night to all six nominated ascents. The Piolet d'Or Walter Bonatti Lifetime Achievement Award was given to Austria's Kurt Diemberger.
Sass Dlacia north couloir in the Dolomites
Sass Dlacia north couloir in the Dolomites
On 04/04/2013 Francesco Tremolada and Norbert Frenademetz skied the North Couloir of Sass Dlacia in the Dolomites.
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
03/04/2013 - Alpinism
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
Interview and video about the 2012 attempt carried out by Michi Wohlleben, Arne Bergau and Hannes Jähn to ascend Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru.
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
02/04/2013 - Alpinism
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
Monte Rinalpi ski mountaineering, Alta Valtellina
Monte Rinalpi ski mountaineering, Alta Valtellina
Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi introduces the ski mountaineering trip to the lonesome summit of Monte Rinalpi (3012m), Alta Valtellina, Rhaetian Alps.
Brèche NW des Deux Aigles, first descent of Cadeau d'anniversaire
Brèche NW des Deux Aigles, first descent of Cadeau d'anniversaire
On 23/03/3013 Davide Capozzi and Julien Herry made the first descent of Cadeau d'anniversaire located on Brèche NW des Deux Aigles (Mont Blanc). Davide Capozzi provides the details.
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
22/03/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
The Jury motivation for the special mention assigned to Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, David Lama and Peter Ortner which will be awarded during the 21st Piolet d'Or, scheduled to take place from 3 - 6 April 2013 at Courmayeur and Chamonix at the foot of Mont Blanc.
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
12/03/2013 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
In February 2013 the Italian climbers Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi and Andrea Zaffaroni made the first ascent of Perdidos en el Mundo (870m, 23 pitches, 7b+, 6c+ obligatory) up the north face of Cerro Walwalun in Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile. The story by Mirko Masè.
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
11/03/2013 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
They come from France, Britain, Russia, the United States and Japan and all made beautiful and difficult climb up highest mountains in the world: the candidates for the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious international mountaineering award which will take place from 3 to 6 April 2013...
Grand Muveran West Face steep skiing action in Switzerland
Grand Muveran West Face steep skiing action in Switzerland
On 2 March Sébastien de Sainte Marie, Olov Isaksson and Gilles Bornet skied the West Face of Grand Muveran (1600m, 5.2/5.3 E4) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps.
Pizzo Dosdè, new ski descent in the Cima di Piazzi massif
Pizzo Dosdè, new ski descent in the Cima di Piazzi massif
On Pizzo Dosdè 3280m in the Cima di Piazzi massif (Rhaetian Alps) Giuliano Bordoni, Marco Cattaneo and Bruno Mottini have made the first ski descent of a line they called Freedom and Love down the East Face (50°, 800m). Mountain Guide Giuliano Bordoni has the story.
Dolomites ski mountaineering: the Puez Odle group
Dolomites ski mountaineering: the Puez Odle group
Four ski mountaineering routes in the Puez Odle group of the Dolomites presented by Enrico Baccanti and Francesco Tremolada, Alta Badia Guides: Antersasc North Gully, Crep da le Dodesc, Munt da Medalges, Sass da Putia East Face
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
06/03/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
The situation is currently extremely difficult for the Polish mountaineers who carried out the first winter ascent of Broad Peak yesterday: while Artur Malek and Adam Bielecki spent the night at Camp IV, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski bivied at the col at 7900m.
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this latest success a staggering 9 first winter ascents of the...
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
04/03/2013 - Alpinism
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
On Saturday 2 March 2013, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of a new route which, for the first time ever, breaches the West Face of Torre Egger (Cerro Torre massif, Patagonia).
Steep ski descents in Switzerland
Steep ski descents in Switzerland
In February 2013 Sébastien de Sainte Marie from Switzerland and Olov Isaksson carried out two descents, possible first ski descents, in Switzerland down the North Face of Dent Favre (Bernese Alps) and Pilatus (Urner Alps). Olov Isaksson provides the report.

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