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Jonathan Siegrist repeats Lapsus at Andonno, Italy
27/10/2021 - Climbing
Jonathan Siegrist repeats Lapsus at Andonno, Italy
On Monday 25/10/2021 US rock climber Jonathan Siegrist repeated Lapsus at Andonno, one of the hardest sport climbs in Italy.
Città di Uruk in Val Sapin, climbing at the historic crag above Courmayeur in Italy
13/09/2021 - Climbing
Città di Uruk in Val Sapin, climbing at the historic crag above Courmayeur in Italy
Città di Uruk is a historic crag located in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy. With over 30 climbs of all grades, this is reputed to be the best cliff in the entire Aosta Valley. This year the crag hosts the Tiro Lead competition, with € 1,000 prize money for...
Tiro Leader in Val Sapin above Courmayeur, Italy / Alberto Gnerro & Federica Mingolla interview
18/08/2021 - Interviews
Tiro Leader in Val Sapin above Courmayeur, Italy / Alberto Gnerro & Federica Mingolla interview
Interview with Alberto Gnerro and Federica Mingolla, the two ‘judges’ of the Tiro Leader Climbing Challenge in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley. Until October two climbs, one for men and one for women, at the historic crag La città di Uruk await the first free ascent; €...
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
In June 2021 Tom Livingstone and Mathieu Maynadier attempted the unclimbed SE Ridge of Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan. Due to prohibitive conditions they descended from 6750m.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2021 returns to the Dolomites in July
09/06/2021 - Events
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2021 returns to the Dolomites in July
The Dolorock Climbing Festival is back and for the eighth edition of the Dolomites climbing festival the organisers have devised a new formula: the meeting no longer takes place on a specific day, but climbing in the Höhlensteintal / Landro Valley can be carried out throughout July.
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
06/06/2021 - Climbing
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
This summer and autumn the picturesque Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley hosts the third edition of Tiro Leader, a climbing challenge to free two difficult sport climbs at the historic crag La città di Uruk. The first to free the routes bolted by Federica Mingolla and Alberto...
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
05/01/2021 - Climbing
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
American rock climber George Whitmore has died at the age of 89. Together with Wayne Merry and Warren Harding he made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958.
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.
First ascent climbing contest at Barliard in Ollomont valley, Valle d'Aosta
09/07/2020 - Climbing
First ascent climbing contest at Barliard in Ollomont valley, Valle d'Aosta
A new contest has been launched at the crag Barliard in the Ollomont valley in Valle d’Aosta, Italy where two sport climbs have been bolted and await a first ascent. The first male and female climbers to free the routes will receive climbing equipment to the equivalent of € 1,000.
Nameless Tower Eternal Flame / Huber brothers first free ascent video
15/04/2020 - Alpinism
Nameless Tower Eternal Flame / Huber brothers first free ascent video
The video of the first free ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary rock climb on Nameless Tower, in the Trango group, Karakorum. Established by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the first redpoint was carried out from 11 - 14 August 2009 by Thomas and Alexander Huber.
Rosso 70, online the mountaineering, memories and life of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
09/04/2020 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, online the mountaineering, memories and life of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Courtesy of the Scoiattoli di Cortina we have published online Rosso 70: Stories and memories of 70 years of alpinism of the Scoiattoli di Cortina. The film by Vinicio Stefanello and Francesco Mansutti retraces the first 70 years of the historic and famous Italian mountaineering club established in the Dolomites...
Romain Desgranges retires from international climbing competitions
04/03/2020 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges retires from international climbing competitions
French climber Romain Desgranges, double European Lead Champion and winner of the 2017 Lead World Cup, has officially retired from sports climbing competitions.

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