197 News found

Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...

Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.

Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...

Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci...

Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.

Stefan Scarperi from the South Tyrol, Italy, has repeated Bügeleisen sit, the 8C boulder problem in Maltatal, Austria, established in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival.

During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.

Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.

Climbing competitions: the 2019 Lead World Cup was won yesterday in Xiamen, China, by Adam Ondra demo the Czech Republic and Chaehyun Seo from South Korea. Both won the penultimate stage, while Taisei Homma and Akiyo Noguchi took silver and Tomoa Narasaki and Jain Kim took bronze. The last stage...

Adam Ondra and Lučka Rakovec have been crowned European Lead Champions today at Edinburgh in Scotland. Alberto Ginés López and Laura Rogora placed second, Sascha Lehmann and Luce Douady third.

The fourth stage of the Lead World Cup 2019 was won in Kranj, Slovenia, yesterday by Adam Ondra and Chaehyun Seo. Jessica Pilz and Kai Harada took silver, Lučka Rakovec and Alberto Ginés López bronze.

On Sunday 15 September 2019 Aaron Durogati and Mirco Grasso climbed Moby Dick up the South Face of Marmolada in the Dolomites to the famous halfway ledge from where they took off with a two-person paraglider. The experience reminded the South Tyrolean pilot of his recent paraglides in Patagonia.

Youth World Championships 2019 at Arco: the Lead event was won yesterday by Laura Rogora (Junior Female) from Italy, Nika Potapova (Female Youth A) from the Ukraine and Hidemasa Nishida (Male Youth A) from Japan

Leonardo di Marino, international route setter along with Carles Brasco and Jan Zbraneck at the Briançon stage of the Climbing Lead World Cup 2019, reports about last Saturday’s event won by Japan’s Hidemasa Nishida and South Korea’s Chaehyun Seo. Janja Garnbret and Hiroto Shimizu took silver, Natsuki Tanii and Shuta...

The second stage of the Lead World Cup 2019 was won in Chamonix on Saturday night by 15-year-old Chaehyun Seo and Adam Ondra. The Speed World Cup stage was won by YiLing Song and Alfian Muhammad.

German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...