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Arco Rock Legends 2016: the sport climbing Oscars nominees
27/07/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2016: the sport climbing Oscars nominees
On Friday 26 August 2016 the annual sport climbing Oscars return to celebrate the 11th Arco Rock Legends awards during the historic 30th Rock Master climbing competition. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Dani Andrada (Esp), Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Laura Rogora (Ita), while Janja Garnbret (Slo),...
Mario Dalmaviva, a tribute by PlanetMountain
25/07/2016 - Book-press
Mario Dalmaviva, a tribute by PlanetMountain
Last week Mario Dalmaviva left us after loosing his long battle against illness. In 2000, as director of Vivalda Editori, he played a vital role in the birth of PlanetMountain.
Urko Carmona Barandiaran climbs Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites
24/07/2016 - Alpinism
Urko Carmona Barandiaran climbs Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Spanish paraclimber Urko Carmona Barandiaran has recently made two ascents up Cima Grande, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Climbing together with Juan Antonio Ramos Bellido, he repeated Via Dülfer and then Via Comici - Dimai.
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
18/07/2016 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
The second stage of IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Villars, Switzerland last weekend and was won by Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl. The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Marcin Dzienski of Poland and Anouck Jaubert of France.
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...
 Lena Herrmann first German woman to climb 8c+
16/06/2016 - Climbing
Lena Herrmann first German woman to climb 8c+
22-year-old German Lena Herrmann has climbed her first 8c+, Battle Cat in the Frankenjura. With this ascent she has become the first German woman to climb a route of this difficulty.
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
14/06/2016 - Climbing
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
Alessio Roverato provides the report and topo of Angelo Mio (250m, 7a +, 6c obl), a new rock climb he established together with Angela Carrar on Monte Spitz in Val Gadena (Valsugana VI).

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