1069 News found

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Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
19/11/2012 - Climbing
Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
Two videos by Cheyne Lempe from Yosemite concerning climbing safety: replacement of old bolts and the removal, off El Capitan, of the famous Death Block.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
New Valle dell'Orco rock climb
07/11/2012 - Climbing
New Valle dell'Orco rock climb
In Valle dell'Orco Alex Ostorero and Enrico Griotto have made the first ascent of Waiting for the sun behind the moon (7b, 6b obl./RS2/II).
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
29/10/2012 - Alpinism
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
This summer a successful Swiss expedition comprised of Jacksch, Ledergerber, Schüpbach and Reist established four long new routes in Renland, Greenland.
New Dolomite rock climbs on Cason de Formin
19/10/2012 - Climbing
New Dolomite rock climbs on Cason de Formin
Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).
Silvan Schüpbach frees La Röschtigraben in Wendenstöcke
18/10/2012 - Alpinism
Silvan Schüpbach frees La Röschtigraben in Wendenstöcke
Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of La Röschtigraben (700m, 8a+, 7b obligatory) in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.
Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali
11/10/2012 - Alpinism
Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali
On 22/09/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent of Il colpo di coda (7a+, 160m) up the South Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Natali who made the first free ascent of the line together with Carlo Cortinovis on 06/10/2012.
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
08/10/2012 - Alpinism
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012 up Corna delle Quattro Matte (Presolana massif), Italy.
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
05/10/2012 - Alpinism
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)
Pamela Pack and The Forever War video at Vedauwoo
20/09/2012 - Climbing
Pamela Pack and The Forever War video at Vedauwoo
The video of American climber Pamela Shanti Pack on The Forever War 5.13c/d at Vedauwoo, USA.

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