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Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler on Pinocchio (M8+, WI 5), the mixed climb in Val Travenanzes (Dolomite) put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr.
Photo by Christoph Vonmetz
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Pinocchio, new mixed climb in Val Travenanzes


Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler have made the first free ascent of Pinocchio (M8+, WI 5), a mixed climb in Val Travenanzes (Dolomites) put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr.

After Dolasilla established in April 2011 it's now time for Pinocchio, a mixed climb established by the Riegler brothers and Hannes Lemayr. The new route is located in Val Travenanzes in the Fanes group in the heart of the Dolomites, that valley which seems to offer endless possibilities for ice climbing.

Pinocchio climbs a drip on the left-hand side of the beautiful valley, circa 100m to the left of Moby Dick. Put up in January 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr, it first follows a slender crack to reach the obvious hanging drip. A first belay is located at circa half-height in a hidden niche that also contains the route book. From here Pinocchio continues up the ice drip to finish on the summit, with difficulties estimated at M8+ and WI 5. Protected by bolts, the line was recently freed by Martin Riegler and his brother Florian.





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