1860 News found

Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).

The multi-pitch rock climb Spigolo dell’Ospitalità was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon up the beautiful Pedra Longa tower in Sardinia. Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu recently made a rare, possibly even first, repeat of this climb above the coast of Baunei.

Interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent, carried out with fellow-Belgians Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee, of the big wall rock climb El Regalo de Mwono (1200m, 8a) located on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.

At Cresciano in Switzerland Italy’s Luca Rinaldi repeated The Proue while at Varazze he sent Gioia and Alphacentauri. All three boulder problems are graded 8B.

Gianni Tomasoni, the historic local climber at the crag Corna Rossa di Bratto, talks about this cliff in Italy’s Val Seriana which was recently developed further with the addition of an entirely new sector called Solarium.

Winter mountaineering in Molise, Italy: Riccardo Quaranta reports about Infinite Dreams (120m, AI4-, TD), the new mixed climb he established Monte Miletto in the Matese massif, established on 15/02/2017 with Agnese Flavi.

Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington have abandoned their attempt at make the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, the famous big wall up the Central Paine Tower in Patagonia, due to terrible weather.

The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the East Face of Cerro Murallon in Patagonia. The first ascent...

Interview with Italian climber Laura Rogora who, aged a mere 15, made the first ascent of a route at Collepardo on the outskirts of Rome which could be one of the hardest sport climbs ever freed by a woman.

The Spanish expedition led by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon to climb Everest in winter and without supplementary oxygen has begun in earnest. A weather window is forecast for 14 to 18 February 2017.

Video and interview with Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi who yesterday, on 30/01/2017, repeated 'First Round, First Minute' at Margalef in Spain. This 9b sport climb was freed by Chris Sharma in 2011 and had been repeated previously by Adam Ondra and Alexander Megos.

Politically incorrect thoughts after a climbing trip to Chulilla, Spain, one of the best rock climbing destinations in the world and currently extremely popular among the climbing community. By Maurizio Oviglia.

Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.

Sport climbing: at Margalef in Spain Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated 'First Ley' 9a+, while at Varazze in Italy Pietro Biagini has climbed 'Alphacentauri sit', his first 8B boulder problem.

Luca Vallata reports about the first ascent of La Bruixa, a new icefall in Val Zemola, Dolomites, climbed on 05/01/2017 together with Santiago Padrós.

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...