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Arco Rock Legends 2016 awarded to Daniel Andrada, Mina Markovič and the IFSC
27/08/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2016 awarded to Daniel Andrada, Mina Markovič and the IFSC
On Friday 26/08/2016 the 11th Arco Rock Legends celebration took place in Arco, Italy during the 30th Rock Master. Daniel Andrada won the Wild Country Rock Award, while the La Sportiva Competition Award went to Mina Markovič. The other nominees were Jakob Schubert, Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra....
Bramosia Scura, new rock climb in Sella group, Dolomites
26/08/2016 - Climbing
Bramosia Scura, new rock climb in Sella group, Dolomites
Peter Manhartsberger reports about the first ascent, carried out together with Klaus Gössinger, of Bramosia Scura (6c+, 145m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the North Face of Cima Vallon, Sella, Dolomites.
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
23/08/2016 - Alpinism
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel have established 'The loss of the Demantoid', a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Kristallwand face on Kirchkogel (3280m) in Austria. The route was established in memory of their friend Gerhard Fiegl.
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
21/08/2016 - Alpinism
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
19/08/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the recent two-month climbing trip to Baffin Island, together with Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera that resulted in a series of new, long and difficult trad routes.
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
18/08/2016 - Events
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll...
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
17/08/2016 - Events
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by...
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
03/08/2016 - Alpinism
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
01/08/2016 - Alpinism
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
In the Brenta Dolomites Andrea Simonini and Gianluca Beliamoli have made the first ascent of 'Bastava un Piumino' (180m, 6c), a new multi-pitch climb on a tower they have named Pilastro Canino, next to Cima d'Agola in Val d'Ambiez. Simonini provides the report.
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27/07/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (Civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2 aid, and is protected by trad gear and few pegs.
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
26/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
More news from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. The climbers have forged a further two new routes in Stewart valley and the Ragni di Lecco alpinists are now returning.
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
12/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
Updates directly from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. After having established a new big wall up Great Sail Peak (1,615m), the expedition has added a further two new routes to the Stewart...
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
11/07/2016 - Climbing
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
07/07/2016 - Climbing
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
In June 2016 Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of Nubivagant - Wandering in the clouds (455m, 5.13d/A0 8b) up Pico Cão Grande on the island of São Tomé, Africa.