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Hervé Barmasse, Patagonia and three first winter ascents
23/10/2013 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Patagonia and three first winter ascents
In September Hervé Barmasse with Martin Castrillo made the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and with Martin Castrillo and Pedrito el "fino" the first ascent (in winter) of two of the three Colmillos summits in the Cordon Marconi area.
Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs
24/09/2013 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs
Maurizio Oviglia and Massimiliano Celano introduce the new cliff Altrolato and its routes on the dark side of the Orco valley.
Great Trango Tower: Raganowicz and Tomaszewski climb Bushido
20/09/2013 - Interviews
Great Trango Tower: Raganowicz and Tomaszewski climb Bushido
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who talks about the new big wall Bushido (VII– A4 VII+), established together with Marcin Tomaszewski up Great Trango Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Zeitgeist on Roßkopf, new rock climb by Haid and Klingler in Austria
19/09/2013 - Climbing
Zeitgeist on Roßkopf, new rock climb by Haid and Klingler in Austria
Markus Haid and Florian Klingler have made the first ascent of Zeitgeist (300m, 7c+, 7b obligatory) up Roßkopf, Rofangebirge, Austria.
New Adamello rock climb by Tomasoni and Bariani
19/09/2013 - Alpinism
New Adamello rock climb by Tomasoni and Bariani
In August 2013 Gianni Tomasoni and Sibilla Bariani made the frist ascent of "I sogni di Baku" (VII 300m), a new rock climb up the SE Face of Corno Gioià in Val Adamé (Lombardy, Italy) dedicated to Rocco Belingheri.
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
13/09/2013 - Alpinism
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
Turkish climbers Zorbey Aktuyun and Evren Kirazlı have carried out the the first repeat of Üç Muz (650m, 8a), the route first climbed in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the East Face of Demirkazik, Ala Daglar, Turkey.
A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia
11/09/2013 - Alpinism
A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia
A legendary rock climb as a birthday present: via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route up the South Face of Marmolada. A pretext to remember once again that climbing and alpinism are a never ending evolution between dreams and reality.
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
05/09/2013 - Climbing
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
On 10/08/2013 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Dall’alba al tramonto (6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II, 230m), a new climb up the SE Face of Presolana Centrale.
Spina de Mul, new rock climb up Col Becchei by Gargitter and Kehrer
29/08/2013 - Alpinism
Spina de Mul, new rock climb up Col Becchei by Gargitter and Kehrer
The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Helmut Gargitter introduce their route Spina de Mul (185m, 7c max, 7a obl.) first climbed in June 2012 up the south face of Col Becchei (Dolomites).
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
28/08/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
On 2 August Roger Schäli and Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the Piola - Ghilini Direttissima (1400m, 7c) on the north face of the Eiger.
Dani Moreno, a successful summer in the Dolomites
27/08/2013 - Alpinism
Dani Moreno, a successful summer in the Dolomites
Spanish climber Dani Moreno provides his climbing trip report to the Italian Dolomites which includes highlights such as Bellavista on Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Invisibilis on Marmolada, the long history of a new route by Larcher and Vergoni
27/08/2013 - Alpinism
Invisibilis on Marmolada, the long history of a new route by Larcher and Vergoni
Rolando Larcher and Geremia Vergoni recount the birth of Invisibilis (405m, 7c+ max, 7a+ obl.), the new route established over 5 days from 2009 to 2011 up the south face of Marmolada di Ombretta (Dolomites) and freed by Vergoni on 26/06/2012 and repeated by Larcher on 11/09/2012. A route that...
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
21/08/2013 - Alpinism
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari retraces the route established by Claude Barbier and Jean Bourgeois on Torre del Lago (Fanis group, Dolomites) on 4 August 1964.
Das Orakel, new Lagazuoi climb in the Dolomites
15/08/2013 - Alpinism
Das Orakel, new Lagazuoi climb in the Dolomites
Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have established and freed Das Orakel (IX, 320m), a new climb up the North Face of Lagazuoi in the Dolomites.
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...
Salento vertical, new rock climbs in Puglia, Italy
16/07/2013 - Climbing
Salento vertical, new rock climbs in Puglia, Italy
Davide Schiantarelli presents the result of 10 days of work for the Salento Vertical project that resulted in a flurry of new climbs in the area between Ponte Ciolo and Santa Maria di Leuca in Southern Italy.

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