1156 News found

02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...

30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).

22/09/2014 - Alpinism
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.

17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris...

16/09/2014 - Alpinism
Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites On 17/08/2014 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first one day ascent of Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch 8a, a route established in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.

15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites Giovanni Bergamin, Francesco Leardi, Giuliano Pettenuzzo and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of Forza 5 (280m, 6b/A1), a new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites.

10/09/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first...

09/09/2014 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses On Monday 8 September the Italian alpinist Corrado "Korra" Pesce made a fast solo ascent of the Polish route up Pointe Helene on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

09/09/2014 - Climbing
British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson At Pembroke in Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Mercia Wall E8, Yuji Hirayama has climbed The Big Issue E9 while James Pearson has made a flash ascent of Something's Burning E9. Caroline Ciavaldini talks us through these three difficult trad climbs.

03/09/2014 - Alpinism
No Credit, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites by Gietl and Tavanini This summer the mountain guides Simon Gietl and Daniel Tavanini made the first ascent of No Credit (X-, 320m), a new route up Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites.

25/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda The report by Alessandro Beber and Alessandro Baù about two new rock climbs on Punta Jolanda: Prua degli Onironauti (250m, VII) and Badanti al seguito (220m, VIII), established on 04/08/2014 together with Matteo Baù, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti and Claudia Mario. The second report of the Brenta Base Camp, the...

20/08/2014 - Alpinism
Diretta Consiglio: sun, sky, rock and the Gran Sasso d'Italia. By Ivo Ferrari Ivo Ferrari climbs 'La Diretta Consiglio' up the Gran Sasso. A day spent between the rocks and the sky, reliving the beauty of the climb.

14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.

12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.

05/08/2014 - Alpinism
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling On 9 June 2013 Thomas Meling made the first free ascent of Ikaros (7c), first climbed by Robert Caspersen, alone, in 1994 up the North Face of Blåmannen, Norway. The full report by Meling.
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