1177 News found

Claudio Migliorini talks about the first ascent of two mixed climbs on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella massif, Italy) carried out in 2013, Rolling Stones and Una via per te fatta in tre, as well as the first repeat of Wind of Change.

Interview with Philippe Brass, mountain guide and expert new routes, about crag certification and classification, the responsibilities new bolters have the the training they receive. By Maurizio Oviglia

Maurizio Oviglia analyses the recent case of the sea cliff sports crag “Casarotto” at Capo Caccia, Alghero, Sardinia.

American alpinists Colin Haley and Rob Smith have made the first ascent of Romance Explosion (500m, 5.10R, M5R) and in doing so have made the first ascent of Aguja Antipasto, the beautiful tower located next to Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia.

On 25/11/2014 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (V, M6 650m), a new mixed and ice climb up the North Face of Wasserkopf (3135m), Rieserferner group, Tauern Alps. The new route crosses, at 2/3 height, the line first climbed in 1977 by Werner Beikircher...

Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascents, carried out together with Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori, of three new multi-pitch rock climbs: Free Frasassi (85m, 7b+) and Decrescita Obbligata (130m, 7c+) at Gola di Frasassi (An), and Benvenuti al Sud (215m, 7a+), Monte Pertuso (Amalfi coast), Italy.

German climber Tobias Wolf recounts his vertical adventures, together with Stephan Isensee, on three demanding climbs in the Alps first ascended by the Ragni di Lecco Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma, and by Luca Auguadri. Infinite Jest (Wendenstöcke), Il Mito della Caverna (Val Bavona) and Non è un paese...

The teaser of the film Orbayu with Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat climbing Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.

On 16/11/2014 at San Vito Lo Capo, Italy, Stefan Rass from Austria had a terrible climbing accident and he is currently in induced coma at Salzburg. Published below is an appeal for donations for his young family as well as a short text by Elio Bonfanti who helped Rass immediately...

Angelo Fantini and Diego Pezzoli have made the first ascent of the aid climb Generazioni a Confronto (IV, 5c, A1/A2), Sasso di Fontana Mora, N Italy.

In October 2014 Simon Gietl, Daniel Tavernini and Vittorio Messini carried out a series of alpine ascents in the Minya Konka massif, Sichuan, China.

Via del Trenino and the climbing above Passo San Giovanni (Arco), put up in 1986 by Giampaolo Calzà Trota, Rino Zanotti and Andrea Zucchelli and recently re-equipped by Calzà and Danny Zampiccoli.

On 2 November 2014 Giovanni Ghezzi and Demis Lorenzi made the first ascent of Clean Climb (IV/M4+, 480m), a new mixed route up Monte Nero, Adamello – Presanella group, Italian Alps.

On Combe Maudite, in the Mont Blanc massif, two new ice and mixed routes have been climbed, Saumons et Glacons (M5+ WI5 R, 500m, Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye) and An... ice surprise (M7, W15, A1+, III, 350m Enrico Bonino, Giulia Venturelli). Report by Enrico Bonino.

The report by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori about the first ascent of Happy Ledge (335m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory), a new rock climb in the beautiful Val Trementina, a little jewel in the Paganella crown: Verdon-like, wild and little-known.

Today Gabriele Moroni repeated Goldrake 9a+ at the Italian crag Cornalba.