Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr climb new Corsica granite
Auer and Mayr are a well-oiled pair, having climbed new routes together from Marmolada in the Dolomites all the way to Patagonia’s Paine Tower. They started up a line on the 400m high West Face of Capu Cascioni, to the right of Le non-sens et la joie, and after having climbed ground-up for 3 days they were forced to return home without having completed the route.
Auer and Mayr returned this March to conclude unfinished business and, in-between dodging the raindrops, they spent one day completing the route, worked it a further two days, and then made the first free ascent last Friday.
The new climb is called Le Petit Prince, breaches difficulties up to 8a and, as Auer is keen to point out, has "just 12 bolts along the 12 pitches, excluding the belays"” The result is a severe, at times run-out test that shouldn’t be underestimated.
Le Petit Prince
Capu Cascioni, West Face, Corsica
5c, 7b+/c, 6a, 8a, 6c+, 6a+, 6b, 7c, 6b, 7b+, 6b, 5c
25/09/2009 - Corsica rock climbing
A selection of some of the best multi-pitch rock climbs in Corsica, by Maurizio Oviglia. Routes in the Bavella, Val Restonica and Valle du Tavignano.