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Piolet d'Or 2015 and the big list of 58 climbs
20/02/2015 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2015 and the big list of 58 climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2014 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 9 - 12 April, 2015 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, Manaslu Base Camp interview
19/02/2015 - Interviews
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, Manaslu Base Camp interview
Interview with Italian alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, currently at Manaslu base camp where they are hoping to make the first winter enchainment of the Main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle (7992m).
Massimo Piras and his timeless love for ice climbing
09/02/2015 - Alpinism
Massimo Piras and his timeless love for ice climbing
The portrait of Massimo Piras, 62-year-old Italian alpinist, instructor at the Scuola Gervasutti di Torino, Academic of the Italian Alpine Club with over 100 new ice climbs to his name during 35 year of continues ice climbing. By Edoardo Falletta.
Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia
25/01/2015 - Alpinism
Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia
From 18 - 21 January 2015 Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc climbed Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, This new traverse from south to north has been called Travesia del Oso Buda, in memory of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg.
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
15/01/2015 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with two pitches graded 5.14d (9a), this is probably the hardest...
Dawn Wall frenzy reaches fever pitch as Caldwell and Jorgeson climb to new heights on El Capitan
11/01/2015 - Climbing
Dawn Wall frenzy reaches fever pitch as Caldwell and Jorgeson climb to new heights on El Capitan
Both Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson have reached new personal high points during their endeavour to free climb in a single, ground-up push the Dawn Wall project on El Capitan, Yosemite.
Tommy Caldwell climbs last crux pitch at half-height on Dawn Wall
07/01/2015 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell climbs last crux pitch at half-height on Dawn Wall
Breaking news from Yosemite: America’s Tommy Caldwell has just managed to redpoint the final 5.14 pitch, half-way up Dawn Wall, El Capitan, USA.
Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting?
15/12/2014 - Climbing
Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting?
Maurizio Oviglia analyses the recent case of the sea cliff sports crag “Casarotto” at Capo Caccia, Alghero, Sardinia.
The first ski mountaineering trip of the season
The first ski mountaineering trip of the season
Any old mountain, any old valley above Cuneo and the first ski mountaineering trip of the season. By Mattia Salvi.
Wasserkopf, new Rieserferner mixed and ice climb by Gietl and Messini
05/12/2014 - Alpinism
Wasserkopf, new Rieserferner mixed and ice climb by Gietl and Messini
On 25/11/2014 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (V, M6 650m), a new mixed and ice climb up the North Face of Wasserkopf (3135m), Rieserferner group, Tauern Alps. The new route crosses, at 2/3 height, the line first climbed in 1977 by Werner Beikircher...
Rolling south... climbing at Gola di Frasassi and Monte Pertuso, Amalfi coast
04/12/2014 - Climbing
Rolling south... climbing at Gola di Frasassi and Monte Pertuso, Amalfi coast
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascents, carried out together with Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori, of three new multi-pitch rock climbs: Free Frasassi (85m, 7b+) and Decrescita Obbligata (130m, 7c+) at Gola di Frasassi (An), and Benvenuti al Sud (215m, 7a+), Monte Pertuso (Amalfi coast), Italy.
San Vito Lo Capo: the Stefan Rass climbing accident and the appeal for donations. By Elio Bonfanti
27/11/2014 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo: the Stefan Rass climbing accident and the appeal for donations. By Elio Bonfanti
On 16/11/2014 at San Vito Lo Capo, Italy, Stefan Rass from Austria had a terrible climbing accident and he is currently in induced coma at Salzburg. Published below is an appeal for donations for his young family as well as a short text by Elio Bonfanti who helped Rass immediately...
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
10/11/2014 - Climbing
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
The crags Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone in Val Chiavenna, Italy, introduced by Enrico Baistrocchi and Matteo Deghi, with the photos by Massimo Malpezzi. In memory of Davide Grassi.
Jorg Verhoeven repeats The Nose, Yosemite
07/11/2014 - Climbing
Jorg Verhoeven repeats The Nose, Yosemite
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has successfully repeated The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
30/10/2014 - Climbing
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
The report by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori about the first ascent of Happy Ledge (335m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory), a new rock climb in the beautiful Val Trementina, a little jewel in the Paganella crown: Verdon-like, wild and little-known.
Hagshu NE Face: new Kishtwar climb by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
24/10/2014 - Alpinism
Hagshu NE Face: new Kishtwar climb by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have made the first ascent of a new route up the unclimbed NE Face of Hagshu, Kishtwar, Himalaya.