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Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the...
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
27/05/2011 - Climbing
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
Interview with Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer after the 22 April first free ascent of Hallucinogen Wall 5.13+/R in the Black Canyon, Colorado, USA.
Lee Cossey sneaks new Taipan Wall testpiece
13/05/2011 - Climbing
Lee Cossey sneaks new Taipan Wall testpiece
Australian climber Lee Cossey has established Sneaky Snake 33 on Taipan Wall in the Grampians, Australia.
Fitz Roy East Face: Favresse and Villanueva interview
18/03/2011 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy East Face: Favresse and Villanueva interview
Interview with Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva after their on-sight ascent up the East Face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
18/03/2010 - Climbing
Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
Tony Lourens, the editor of SA Mountain Sport Magazine, shares the delights of rock climbing around Cape Town at the tip of Africa.
Sonnie Trotter, first trad ascent of Prosthetics at Mill Creek, Utah
28/11/2009 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter, first trad ascent of Prosthetics at Mill Creek, Utah
Sonnie Trotter from Canada has made the first retro-trad ascent of Prosthetics 5.13d (r/x) at Mill Creek, Utah, USA.
Alan Watts climbing interview
26/11/2009 - Climbing
Alan Watts climbing interview
Interview with Alan Watts, the climber who played a leading role during the 1980's in developing Smith Rock into one of the most famous crags in the USA and the world.
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
13/10/2009 - Alpinism
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
The history of Eternal Flame and an interview with Alexander Huber after the first free ascent of the route which climbs the Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum.
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South...
John Bachar, goodbye to a legend
17/07/2009 - Climbing
John Bachar, goodbye to a legend
Climbing legend John Bachar, 52, died while soloing on Dike Wall, Mammoth Lakes, California.
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).
Favresse and Villanueva discover The Secret Passage, new route on El Capitan, Yosemite
20/10/2008 - Climbing
Favresse and Villanueva discover The Secret Passage, new route on El Capitan, Yosemite
At the start of October Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva added a new free route, "The Secret Passage" 5.13c to El Capitan, Yosemite.
Hansjörg Auer climbing in Yosemite
23/07/2008 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer climbing in Yosemite
Five weeks climbing in Yosemite resulted in, amongst others, a repeat of El Nino (5.13d) on El Capitan.
Cerro Torre: Patagonian Democracy
14/09/2007 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: Patagonian Democracy
On 14/02/2007 circa 40 mountaineers held an assembly at El Chaltén in Argentina’s "Los Glaciares" National Park to debate about the future if the expansion bolts on the 1970 Maestri “Compressor route” up Cerro Torre. Report and thoughts by Vicente...
Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
08/08/2007 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
On 26/07/2007 Alexander Huber made the first ascent of 'Pan Aroma' 8c through the great roof up the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.