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Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
26/12/2024 - Alpinism
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
The video of the first repeat and first winter ascent of the 'Directissime' on Pointe Walker on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, carried out from 9 to 13 February 2023 by French alpinists Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin and Symon Welfringer. The route was established in summer 1986...
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
10/12/2024 - Alpinism
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
The report of the second day of the Piolets d'Or 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites.
Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
04/11/2024 - Alpinism
Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
Slovakian mountaineer Ondrej Huserka died last week while descending Langtang Lirung in Nepal, shortly after having made the first ascent of the huge East Face with Marek Holeček. Born in 1990, he was widely regarded as one of the leading young alpinists, not only from Slovakia.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
25/10/2024 - Alpinism
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
From 22 August to 26 September a small team of four Slovenian women comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed four new routes in the Indian Himalaya. These include the alpine style first ascent of the previously unclimbed Lalung I (6,243m).
New Croatian climbs in Montenegro's Grebaje valley
16/10/2024 - Climbing
New Croatian climbs in Montenegro's Grebaje valley
The Croatian Mountaineering Association reports about new climbs added to the peaks in the Grebaje valley, Montenegro.
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
08/10/2024 - Alpinism
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
On Sunday 6 October 2024 Michelle Dvorak from the USA and Fay Manners from Great Britain were rescued on Chaukhamba III in northern India. The pair were attempting a new route on the mountain's SE buttress.
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
29/08/2024 - Alpinism
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi and her parter Sina Heidari have established 'Rise up for human rights' on Le Minaret in the Mont Blanc massif with Michel Piola and 'Woman, Life, Freedom' on Catinaccio in the Dolomites with Gianni Trepin and Arianna Capra. The climbs form part of their 'When Mountains...
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
28/08/2024 - Alpinism
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
On August 9, 2024, Switzerland's Dani Arnold and Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, Italy, climbed Einserkofel - Cima Una, Zwölferkofel - Croda dei Toni and Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Sexten Dolomites in a single day. A long enchainment via three big north faces, which the pair have...
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
26/08/2024 - Alpinism
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
On 23 and 24 July 2024 German alpinists Christian Bickel and Micha Rinn climbed all the peaks of the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo skyline in one single push. Despite its obviousness, this is likely to be the first integral enchainment of these nine famous Dolomites peaks.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo 'Space Vertigo' repeated by Felix Kiem, Patrick Tirler
14/08/2024 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo 'Space Vertigo' repeated by Felix Kiem, Patrick Tirler
Felix Kiem and Patrick Tirler have made the first repeat of 'Space Vertigo' on Cima Ovest at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The young alpinists from the South Tyrol, Italy, climbed the route ground-up from 23- 25 July 2024. The 710m, IX+/X- multipitch was first ascended by...
Andy Steindl sets new speed record on Monte Rosa Spaghetti Tour
23/07/2024 - Alpinism
Andy Steindl sets new speed record on Monte Rosa Spaghetti Tour
Swiss mountaineer Andreas Steindl has completed the famous Haute Route of Monte Rosa, also known as the Spaghetti Tour, in 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds.
Watch Fred Degoulet and Benjamin Ribeyre complete their Mer de Glace Ultra Traverse
20/06/2024 - Alpinism
Watch Fred Degoulet and Benjamin Ribeyre complete their Mer de Glace Ultra Traverse
The video documenting the circumnavigation of the Mer de Glace in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out over a period of 9 days in July 2022 by French alpinists Fred Degoulet and Benji Ribeyre.
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
13/06/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the 'Piolets d’Or, the prestigious mountaineering award, will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, Italy, from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
22/05/2024 - Alpinism
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
A three-man Chilean expedition comprised of Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret and Nicolas Secul Ojeda has successfully climbed Monte Sarmiento West summit in Patagonia. Climbed alpine style, this is only the 4th ascent of the remote peak and the first repeat of the original route up the mountain, established in 1986...